Corporate coffee

Sara Lee, Kraft: more baby steps

Sara Lee and Kraft both announce increases in purchase of certified coffees: what does this mean?

Sara Lee
Sara Lee (Senseo, Java Coast, Douwe Egberts, etc.) recently announced a five-year goal of tripling the amount of Utz Certified coffee it purchases. I love how this was spun: that in the past five years, Sara Lee had purchased 110 million kilos of Utz Certified coffee. That sounds like a huge amount, but 110 million kilos is 110,000 metric tons over five years. This is a little over 20,000 tons per year of the 450,000 tons that they purchase annually — less than 5% of their purchases. Indeed, this is right in line with what we learned in my previous post Certified coffee: current market share, part 2.

The article goes on to say that Sara Lee is “committed to more than triple that amount in the next five years and purchase at least 350 million kilos across all its markets and product segments.” My emphasis added.  All product segments, as the piece goes on to say, includes tea (e.g., Pickwick and Hornimans brands in Europe). Sara Lee purchased 2000 tons of Utz Certified tea in 2010, so a tripling of that amount has to be factored in to get to their goal of 350 million kilos. If met, this goal means that in 2015, certified coffee will still only be 15 to 20% of their total coffee purchases. And Utz currently does not have significant environmental standards.

Sara Lee also just revealed that due to rising coffee prices, it will be reformulating some of its coffee blends to include more cheap robusta beans. You know — the ones typically grown as sun coffee.

Kraft
Kraft (Yuban, Maxwell House, General Foods International Coffee, Gevalia, Kenco, Maxim, Tassimo, Nabob, and Sanka) has reported that they increased the amount of Rainforest Alliance certified coffee they purchased to 110 million pounds in 2010. If we drag out the calculator again (and round up for the sake of simplicity) we see that is 50,000 metric tons…out of the 740,000 tons they purchase each year, or less than 7% of their total purchases.

Coffee image by bitzcelt under a Creative Commons license.

4C Code of Conduct: marginal standards for corporate coffee

Note that this is now the Baseline Common Code of the Global Coffee Platform.

“Mainstream” commodity coffee makes up over 85% of the sold and consumed in the world. Most of it is bought and sold by the large corporate coffee roasters. It is this cheap, anonymous coffee that is usually responsible for environmental destruction and related woes.

The 4C Association, made up largely of mainstream producers and suppliers, put together the 4C Code of Conduct to address some of the most egregious, unsustainable practices in the industry.

While compliance with the 4C Code of Conduct does not constitute a certification, it’s a useful frame of reference. Here, we’ll see how the big corporate roasters address environmental sustainability and how much it contrasts with the standards of other certifications and even uncertified specialty coffee. Prepared to be appalled — this Code reveals how most of the world’s coffee is apparently produced.

Introduction to the 4C Association

The 4C Association was established in 2006 as an offshoot of the Common Code for the Coffee Community project. The 4C Association is a global, “open and inclusive” group of members in the coffee industry, including producers. Membership fees are nominal for small producers, but may be up to €160,000 for large industry members (such as Kraft, Nestlè, Aldi, and Tchibo, as well as importers, brokers, etc.). Membership fees help fund 4C Support Services, which provide training for producers.

The 4C goal is to ensure that all coffee complies with minimum sustainability standards, via their 4C Code of Conduct.

The 4C Code of Conduct

The 4C Association states: “The 4C Code of Conduct includes baseline requirements for the sustainable production, processing and trading of coffee and eliminates unacceptable practices. The code facilitates a dynamic improvement process by providing guidance for and commitment to continuous improvement.”

First, there are ten Unacceptable Practices. These are the mandatory prohibitions. 4C compliant members must not engage in the following:

  1. The worst forms of child labor. [Using this definition, in Article 3.]
  2. Bonded and forced labor.
  3. Human trafficking.
  4. Prohibiting membership or representation by unions.
  5. Forced eviction without adequate compensation.
  6. Failure to provide adequate housing for workers, where required.
  7. Failure to provide potable water to all workers.
  8. Cutting of primary forest or destruction of other forms of natural resources that are designated as protected areas by national and/or international legislation.
  9. The use of pesticides banned under the Stockholm convention and listed in the Rotterdam Convention on Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs).
  10. Immoral transactions in business relations according to international covenants, national law and practices.

In other words, activities that are illegal. I presume that the compilation and mere existence of this list indicates that coffee is produced — perhaps commonly — under at least some of these atrocious conditions. While 4C roaster/final buyer members have to commit to buying increasing amounts of coffee from producers verified as complying with the Code of Conduct, they are not required to do so exclusively.

4C estimates that only about 30% of the global green coffee supply comes from 4C members that do not use these practices. Another 10% of the global supply is made up of specialty and various certified coffees.

That means at least 60% of the world’s coffee is produced under conditions that violating these basic human rights, environmental laws, and business ethics. Please think about that next time you are tempted to buy Folgers, Nescafè, or other cheap brand.

Beyond the 10 Unacceptable Practices, there are 27 social, environmental and economic principals. Each one has three criteria/indicators, categorized like traffic lights: red (to be discontinued), yellow (to be improved), and green (desirable practice).

Producers are considered in compliance with the code even if they score “red” in some principals, so long as there is an equal number of ”green” practices in the same dimension (social, environmental, or economic) equaling a ”yellow” average.

A look at the environmental principals

Of the 27 principals, 10 are listed under the environmental category. They are summarized below, using their “green” or highest criteria. While I have paraphrased and condensed here for space, I have not over-simplified the indicators — their generic generality is much as you see it below (you can download the entire Code on this page).

  • Conservation of biodiversity is supported. Land use maps exist, and a protection program exists and meets at least national law.
  • Use of pesticides is minimized.
  • Soil conservation practices are in place, and there are no signs of erosion.
  • Fertilizers are used appropriately via soil and plant analysis and documentation.
  • Organic matter management is in place through the use of organic fertilizers and reuse of organic waste.
  • Water resources are conserved via a water management plan which includes efficiency in irrigation and wet processing and conservation of water sources.
  • Wastewater management for sewage and wet processing is in place.
  • Safe waste management is in place (reuse, recycling and safe disposal).
  • Preferential use of renewable energy (potential sources identified and used if possible).
  • Saving energy by quantifying use, reduction of use, and improvement in efficient use.

Imagine the opposite of these “green” criteria and you’ll have the “red” criteria. The red criteria for#2, for example, is that “use of the most hazardous pesticides…is practiced.” Yellow criteria represent somewhere in between the two, of course.

Therefore, under the “yellow average” rule, a coffee could be 4C compliant even if there was evidence of hunting of endangered species, hazardous pesticides applied and stored without regard to safety, wastewater discharged directly into the environment, AND severe soil erosion, so long as there was appropriate use of fertilizers, including organic fertilizers; efficient use of water; and energy use is monitored, with fossil fuel use reduced and renewable sources used if possible.

Conclusions

I know we all have to start somewhere, and something is better than nothing. I can appreciate the effort it took to get all these big players on the same page — any page. But frankly, it’s unacceptable to me that any major corporation purchases coffee from producers that don’t meet basic standards of human and environmental decency.

Only 3.26% of the coffee purchased by the four largest buyers of green coffee in the world — Nestlè, Kraft, Sara Lee, and JM Smuckers — was reported to have met any sort of standards at all.*

I know that because of their large volumes, these roasters sometimes don’t even know where their coffee comes from. I believe that they should. I also think that the highest level of compliance (“green”) for every one of the 28 principals of the 4C Code of Conduct should be the starting point — the minimal standards required. These companies can afford to clean up their supply chains, and help their sources meet these standards. The combined profits of these four companies in 2009 was nearly $15 billion. Perhaps I’m oversimplifying and being naïve, but the worst thing that could happen would be that their profits would drop temporarily and the price of coffee to consumers would finally reflect the true cost to people and the environment.

I doubt this will happen any time soon. So the least we can do is take a look at those ten unacceptable practices and ask ourselves if that’s what we want to support. We need to look at that list and remember that we have no assurance that over 96% of the coffee bought and sold by Nestlè, Kraft, Sara Lee, and JM Smuckers (brand list here) wasn’t produced under some — maybe all — of these loathsome conditions.

Today is National Coffee Break Day, a coffee-awareness campaign sponsored by the National Coffee Association, an industry trade group. Tweet or link to this post on Facebook — let’s all spread some awareness about the nature of “corporate coffee.”


*In my previous post on how much sustainably-grown coffee is purchased by big buyers, I excluded the amounts that were listed as 4C compliant (and Fair Trade certified) because I didn’t feel it represented coffee produced under meaningful “eco-friendly” standards. The figure stated above, 3.26%, includes 4C and Fair Trade coffees, plus all the other certifications.

Sips: Corporate coffee news

Kraft’s Maxwell House coffee concentrate earns Rainforest Alliance seal. First of all, this product is a “premium roast frozen liquid coffee concentrate blend.” Blech. Second, once again only 30% of the beans are Rainforest Alliance certified, 70% mystery beans. Third, Kraft gets to boost its “green” image when 96% of the coffee they buy comes from uncertified sources. I don’t like to poo-poo any sort of sustainability effort, but this may leave a bad taste in many a mouth.

JM Smuckers, which acquired the coffee division of Procter & Gamble (Folgers, Millstone, Dunkin Donuts grocery store offerings) has been posting strong earnings, thanks to the blind loyalty people have for cheap, unsustainable coffee. It makes up 35% of the company’s sales and 50% of its profits.

Later this month, I’ll have further information on corporate coffee’s “sustainability” efforts. It’s not pretty.

Certified coffee: current market share, part 2

(Update: I now regularly update the post Corporate coffee: How much is eco-certified? as new information becomes available.)

I often point out that the amount of sustainably-grown coffee that various large corporate coffee roasters purchase is a very small proportion of their total coffee purchases. In a previous post, I looked at the current market share of certified sustainably-grown coffee broken down by certification. Here, we’ll look at which of the world’s major coffee buyers/roasters are purchasing this coffee.

The source of this data is the Tropical Commodity Coalition, a group of ten NGOs that puts out annual reports on various aspects of the coffee, tea, and cocoa industries.  The Coffee Barometer 2009 presents market developments in the certified coffee sector.

Among the interesting data included is a summary of the green (unroasted) coffee purchases by each of the world’s top ten coffee buyers for 2008. It highlights how much “certified” coffee each buyer purchased, including Rainforest Alliance, Utz Certified, organic, Fair Trade, 4c, and the private initiatives of Starbucks (CAFE Practices) and Nestlè (Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality Coffee Program).

In this post, I’ll disregard coffee purchased under Fair Trade (which does not have strong environmental standards) and the 4C Code (see this post on Nestlè and deforestation for information on this bottom-rung system, which does not include environmental criteria any of us would consider as being meaningfully “eco-friendly”). I’ll leave in the Starbucks and Nespresso programs and comment on them below.

So, how much eco-friendly, sustainably-grown coffee is purchased by the big buyers?

Nestlè. Owns Nescafè, Nespresso, Taster’s Choice, Clasico. Purchased 780,000 tons of green coffee in 2008.

  • 13,000 tons under their Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality Coffee Program, or 1.7% of total purchases –but read on. The standards used by Nestlè in this program are not publicly available. Nestlè is working with Rainforest Alliance for guidance, but currently source farms are not certified by Rainforest Alliance. From what I have been able to gather, this program probably has fewer meaningful requirements for environmental protection than Fair Trade or Utz Certified, so pegging them at 1.7% is being generous.

Kraft. Yuban, Maxwell House, General Foods International Coffee, Gevalia, Kenco, Maxim, Tassimo, Nabob, and Sanka. 740,000 tons.

  • 29,500 tons Rainforest Alliance, 4% of total.

Sara Lee. Senseo, Java Coast, various foodservice, Merrild, Kanis & Gunnink, Cafe Pilao, Cafitesse, Harris, Piazza d’Oro; Douwe Egberts is its coffee subsidiary, under which many of these brands appear. 450,000 tons.

  • 20,000 tons Utz Certified (4.4%). The Utz focus is more on traceability and the business end of the spectrum, not environmental standards.

Smuckers. Folgers and Millstone (acquired from Procter & Gamble), Kava, Dunkin Donuts grocery store coffee. 280,000 tons.

  • 1,500 tons Rainforest Alliance/Fair Trade/organic (0.5%). This is a combination of the three, rather than the total amount being triple-certified. There are few organic coffees in their line, one RA coffee (discontinued as of 2011), so the amount is heavily weighted toward Fair Trade. Because of the relatively weak environmental standards of Fair Trade, this means the percentage of eco-friendly coffee is even lower.

Starbucks. 175,000 tons.

  • 4,500 tons organic (2.6%).
  • 120,500 tons under their CAFE Practices (68.8%, for a combined total of 71.4%). I recently took a look at the environmental standards of Starbucks CAFE Practices, and found they  address many more relevant ecological issues than either Fair Trade or UTZ Certified, and they are certainly much stronger than the Nespresso program. What does this mean?

Starbucks buys nearly twice as much coffee grown under meaningful environmental standards than the four largest coffee buyers in the world combined.

Perhaps more than all nine other big buyers. And they have developed these standards, worked with farmers to meet them, and use third-party verification as part of their own corporate initiative. Say what you want about the Mermaid, they do good work on the ground.

Tchibo. 170,000 tons.

  • 5,500 tons Rainforest Alliance/Fair Trade/organic (3.2%). See note under Smuckers about this combined total.

Aldi. Purchases for their private label store brands Beaumont, Alcafe, and Grandessa Signature. 145,000 tons. Percentages not disclosed.

Melitta. Melitta, World Harvest Estate. 145,000tons. Percentages not disclosed.

Lavazza. 140,000 tons.

  • 1,400 tons Rainforest Alliance (1%).

Segafredo. Segrafredo is a brand division of Massimo Zanetti, Beverage Group, which also owns Chock Full o’Nuts, Chase and Sanborn, MJB, and Hills Bros. They grow all their own coffee on plantations in Brazil (said to be the largest plantation in the world) and Costa Rica. Presumably, the 120,000 tons quoted in the report apparently is their production, not actually purchased. None is certified.

So, not counting Aldi and Melitta, since they did not disclose how much (or if) they bought any certified coffee, the big buyers purchased 2,855,000 tons of coffee, of which less than 7% was grown under verifiable sustainable environmental standards.

As mentioned in the last post, I’ve often heard that the reason big roasters do not purchase more sustainable coffee is because there isn’t enough available. This report also gives data on the amount of certified coffee produced, versus the amount purchased. There were 124,000 tons of Rainforest Alliance certified coffee produced in 2008, a surplus of 62,000 tons that was not purchased as certified. The surplus of Utz Certified coffee was 230,500 tons. Had all this been bought, then the percentage of certified coffee purchased by these buyers would have risen to around 17%.