BirdScope is the newsletter for members of the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, one of the world's best known bird research, education, and citizen science organizations. This latest issue has a short article on shade coffee. Yours truly is quoted in it. Check it out: Saving the tropics one sip at a time.
The Birds & Beans: The Good Coffee web site is now up and running. Since I posted about this initiative, which offers only Smithsonian Bird-Friendly certified coffee, there have been a few tweaks and changes.
There is an attractive page with photos of eight species of migratory birds. I assume that there will be some sort of text accompanying them at some point, as they aren’t even identified. They are all migratory species that breed in North America and winter in the tropics, but not all species that depend on, or even winter in, coffee farms. There are also nice bios of the bird conservationists that have been supporting this effort.
We have been trying out all three varieties of Birds & Beans coffees this week. I had intended on posting a longer review later, but since I will be in Nicaragua when the trial period expires, it looks like now is the time to fire off our first impressions. I won’t rate them with motmots, since they have not been tasted by as many people yet as usual.
These were all roasted by Wicked Joe. No roast date on the package.
The “Scarlet Tanager” dark roast is really dark. Starbucks fans, line up here. I was told this is currently from Peru, and aside from a few small microlots sometimes offered by other roasters, I have yet to meet a Peruvian coffee I really like. So this was not my cup, but I did find it very smooth for such a dark roast. Folks who liked a darker roast in our office that have tried it so far were happy with it.
The medium roast “Chestnut-sided Warbler” was perhaps a tad on the dark side of medium, with all beans showing an oil sheen and many oil spots. There was evidence on some beans that it had been roasted too rapidly (this creates little divots in the beans where rapid expansion pops a hunk off). I presume the actual origin of this is Mesa de los Santos, which has long been the only Bird-Friendly certified farm in Colombia. We’ve reviewed and commented on this origin previously, so I won’t go into the details here. This coffee garnered the most diverse comments. A few wished it had been just a tad lighter so some of the more sweeter tones would emerge. Others got the sweetness right away, and pegged a cherry-like fruit flavor. It was smooth and quite bright for a medium/dark roast.
The light roast “Wood Thrush” was the winner of the group. As of this writing, it is sourced from Mexico, and had the chocolate sweetness one expects from this origin. It was especially good in a French press, where it had character and some complexity. Brewed, it was just a nice, pleasant classic Latin American cup. Overall, it just had more going on in the cup than the other two.
The primary audience for these coffees is birders. Most birders I know drink a lot of dark, pedestrian coffee. I think they will find the Birds & Beans coffee a real step up, but not too different from the flavor and roast profiles they are accustomed to, or so exotic that they don’t “get it.” The “Wood Thrush” will also please those that have somewhat more refined palates. All the coffees should completely satisfy people who really care about habitat and biodiversity preservation and want it fully represented in their cup.
If you try these coffees, please leave some impressions in the comments — both on the taste and your thoughts on the web site and “theme.” I’m especially interested in what birders think!
Green Mountain Coffee Roasters will award four grants of $200,000 each to organizations with ideas to combat climate change in four core areas: transportation-related emissions (including GMCR’s product shipping), threats to coffee-growing communities (enormous, given that climate change is already pushing coffee production to higher altitudes), building political will, and empowering individual action. Grant recipients will also be required to meet with GMCR twice a year to help the company work on reducing and mitigating its own carbon footprint.
The last two grant categories seem a little amorphous, but I’m quite enthusiastic about the potential for development of programs that can help farmers adjust to climate change (for those that can; the solution for many farmers may actually be to transition to other crops, unfortunately).
This grant project is part of a larger effort by GMCR to focus on climate change through changing business practices and raising awareness (you can read their statement on climate change here).
Spending $800,000 in the current economic crisis by a company that sells what is essentially a “luxury” item is, I think, a pretty strong statement of commitment to environmental responsibility. Kudos to GMCR.
Ethiopian coffee cultivation — Implications for bird conservation and environmental certification. 2008. A. D. Gove, K. Hylander, S. Nemomisa, and A. Shimelis. Conservation Letters 1:208-216.
Common Fiscal (Lanius collaris), a shrike relative that favors shrubland found almost exclusively in the farm plots.
This is probably the first peer-reviewed paper specifically about coffee growing/shade coffee and birds in Ethiopia. It reveals that the relationship between coffee management and bird diversity is different in Ethiopia than it is in Latin America, where shade coffee criteria were developed, and these differences need to be taken into account in certification criteria.
The study took place in southwestern Ethiopia near Bonga, where coffee is harvested from within existing forests, and also grown in mixed systems with other crops under isolated shade trees. The study area is a mosiac of forest and agriculture, and authors compared birds present in 19 forest sites with 19 farm sites — all representing a range of tree and coffee densities.
Many of the 106 bird species recorded were found in both the forest and farm plots, but forest bird assemblages were distinct from those found on farms.
The Red-chested Cuckoo (Cuculus solitarius) is a woodland species that was found in both farm and forest plots, but more often in forest.
Tree density on farms had a positive influence on the number of forest and woodland bird species. In this way, coffee cultivation, with its associated shade trees, improves habitat for birds by increasing
habitat complexity in these largely open degraded lands. The
coffee plots with their isolated tree patches would not qualify as “shade coffee” under most current criteria. But since coffee is native to Ethiopia, even these little plots could be considered rehabilitation of cleared land. Further, although isolated, the shade trees in coffee farm plots acted as “stepping stones” through inhospitable habitat, and, if plots were abandoned, as valuable sources of seeds that could regenerate forests. The authors concluded coffee cultivation on these small farms was a plus for bird habitat.
On the other hand, most of the forest plots would qualify as shade coffee under current criteria, which emphasize canopy structure. However, it is not uncommon for forest plots to be manipulated for increased coffee density; these plots had complex canopy but simplified understories. This change in forest structure decreased the number of bird species. Encouraging this type of “shade” coffee farming would actually have an overall negative impact on birds and bird habitat. These situations need to be taken into account in future certification schemes in Ethiopia, and perhaps elsewhere in Africa.
A forest specialist, the African Hill Babbler (Pseudoalcippe abyssinica) was found nearly exclusively in forest plots.
Finally, the authors emphasized that “Ensuring that coffee farmers receive a reasonable price for the commodity is perhaps most important.” Under low prices, farmers anticipate clearing forest for cereal, corn, or khat crops, or large government-sponsored sun coffee farms, threatening habitats of all types.
Top: Common Fiscal photo by Lip Kee. Middle: Red-chested Cuckoo photo by Johann du Preez. Bottom: African Hill Babbler photo by Veli Pohjonen, East Usambara Conservation Area Management Programme, Bugwood.org.
A. D. Gove, K. Hylander, S. Nemomisa, A. Shimelis (2008). Ethiopian coffee cultivation — Implications for bird conservation and environmental certification. Conservation Letters, 1, 208-216.