JulieCraves

Climate change / Coffee and the environment

Coffee and climate change: updated resources

Here are additional resources related to coffee and climate change, including how climate change may impact coffee production, how growing coffee under shade can buffer against climate change, and how shade coffee and habitat preservation on coffee farms can contribute to carbon sequestration.

 

Coffee reviews / Latin America

Coffee review: Café Choco Andes

Plainspoken Coffee. A Coffee Review for Ordinary People by Ordinary People, #43.

Coffee reviews have been a little sparse lately. The focus of reviews here is evolving, with an emphasis on educating about corporate coffee, and on sustainable coffees with great backstories or associated projects. This coffee is one of the latter.

Café Choco Andes is about more than just coffee. This project includes multiple international partners working not only to improve coffee quality and move toward organic production methods, but also has reforestation, biodiversity, ecotourism, and educational components. It is part of the larger Choco-Andean corridor project, which seeks to create a network of protected areas, both natural and restored and managed, from northwestern Ecuador to the Pacific coastal mangroves.

Location and background
The Café Choco Andes project takes place in northwest Ecuador. This is an area of very high biodiversity, and the Maquipucuna-Rio Guayllabamba Important Bird Area (IBA) is located here. Over 350 bird species have been recorded in this IBA, including the near-threatened Toucan Barbet (top) and the vulnerable Giant Antpitta (middle). The bulk of the IBA consists of the Maquipucuna Reserve, founded in 1989 by the non-profit Maquipucuna Foundation. The reserve is 6000 ha and located about 50 miles northwest of Quito. It is surrounded by another 14000 ha of protected forest, much of which is undisturbed cloud forest. Altitudes range from 1000 to 2800 meters, thus encompassing coffee-growing zones. It includes an ecolodge and scientific station.

In the late 1990s, the University of Georgia’s School of Ecology and the Maquipucuna Foundation began a project to preserve the area’s biodiversity while improving the livelihoods of residents. Goals included reforestation and creation of forest corridors to improve habitat, especially for migratory birds, and working with coffee farmers to re-establish shade trees and convert to organic production. Over 50,000 coffee trees have been planted since 2000, and over two dozen farms have received organic certification. Other sustainable cottage industries help diversify local income and prevent habitat destruction: beekeeping, paper making, hand-crafted jewelry, jam production, and shade-grown cacao. The project now includes over 160 coffee farmers and 400-plus cacao growers.

The importance of the shade coffee is reflected in research that takes place on these Maquipucuna Foundation-owned lands. A recently published paper [1] by University of Georgia and Foundation researchers looked at the response of resident forest birds to disturbance and canopy cover in this area. It found that 18 species of specialized forest birds sharply declined in areas with less than 21 to 40% canopy cover. The authors noted that this threshold level is the same as the 40% minimum canopy cover recommended for Bird-Friendly and Rainforest Alliance certified coffee.

Around five years ago, additional partners, including the State Botanical Garden of Georgia, the Georgia Museum of Natural History, and the Georgia Environmental Education Alliance established Our Shared Forests (Nuestros Bosques Compartidos in Ecuador). This bi-national education program for schoolkids focuses on awareness of migratory bird species that the two countries share, such as Summer Tanager, Blackburnian Warbler (right), and Red-eyed Vireo.

The coffee
The Macquipucuna Foundation’s coffee is roasted by 1000 Faces Coffee, located in Athens, GA. This particular microlot comes from one of the farms owned by the Foundation that is part of the Café Choco Andes project; Finca Orongo in Pichincha province, near the community of Palmitopamba. At one time, it was completely deforested. It consists of typica and caturra, and is grown at 1400 to 1700 meters.

This coffee is not certified organic or shade-grown, although it is grown under these conditions. Coffee & Conservation readers know that I have mixed feelings about certification, in particular because I don’t believe requiring small producers who grow coffee in perfectly environmentally-sustainable ways should have to pay for it. Many are unable to cover the costs (especially if we as consumers are unwilling to make it worthwhile) or even have the skills and time to manage the paperwork.

The last time we reviewed an Ecuadorian coffee, we weren’t especially impressed. That was a Caribou selection, and it was from Loja. Although it wasn’t a dark roast, it was a tad darker than we tend to like. 1000 Faces roasted this coffee lighter. The roast level indicates medium, but it was on the lighter side. This lighter touch served the coffee well.

This was a solid, middle-of-the-road coffee that reminded us of a good Colombian or Central American coffee. The sweetness was subtle; 1000 Faces describes it as raw honey which seemed apt to me. There was an interesting smoky accent which appealed to some panelists, while others perceived it as ashy. It had a quick and pleasant finish that I associate with a solid, reliable breakfast cup. Nothing else stood out to tasters, but I will say that it was a coffee that seemed to taste better a little further past roast day (at around ten days) than really freshly roasted. It mellowed and had a more rounded and balanced personality, losing some of the ashy notes that we detected at our first tastings. It was much better than the Caribou Ecuadorian selection; we gave it 2.75 motmots.

Read more:

[1] Mordecai, R. S., R. J. Cooper, and R. Justicia. 2009. A threshold response to habitat disturbance by forest birds in the Choco Andean corridor, northwest Ecuador. Biodiversity and Conservation 18:2421-2431.

Toucan Barbet photo by Michael Woodruff via Wikimedia Commons; Giant Antpitta photo by Andy Jones, Cleveland Museum of Natural History; Blackburian Warbler by Petroglyph, all under Creative Commons licenses.

Coffee and the environment / Research on coffee growing

Research: Shade coffee conserves bee diversity

Impacts of coffee agroforestry management on tropical bee communities. 2010. Jha, S. and J. H. Vandermeer. Biological Conservation 143:1423-1431.

Most people are aware of the importance of bees and other pollinators to functioning ecosystems and agriculture. This study took place in Sococusco, Chiapas, Mexico, and looked at what habitat variables were most important to the abundance and diversity of insect pollinators (bees, in this case). It looked at a number of variables — number of tree species, how many were in flower, canopy cover, etc. — and how important they were at different scales (100 m, 500 m, and 1 km). The study took place in small forest fragments and many small shade coffee farms (13 to 70% shade).

Researchers trapped 46 different bee species in these sites, including both social and solitary bees, and cavity-, wood-, and ground-nesting species. They found that habitat management on farms was more predictive of bee abundance than the forest cover in the surrounding landscape at all the three scales. On these farms, tree diversity — the number of tree species — was the best predictor of bee abundance and diversity. The number of tree species flowering and canopy cover were next.

These results are different than many other similar studies. Often, biodiversity in agricultural areas is dependent on the quality and extent of the surrounding landscape, which acts as a source and provides resources for fauna found on farms. Two factors could be influencing the results of the current study. First, this shade coffee region has farms with high structural diversity, and
low regional forest cover, so resources may be more available on farms
than in forests. Second, bee communities in the study area are small-bodied and thus have shorter foraging ranges. They may react more strongly to local resources.

This study indicates that coffee farmers in Chiapas — and in similar landscapes — can attract pollinators and bolster biodiversity by using diverse shade tree species, allowing trees to mature, creating
light gaps, and creating patches of flowering herbaceous plants. Farmers will also benefit from the ecosystem services provided by the bees which will pollinate supplementary crops on the farm in addition to promoting cross-pollination of their coffee (which improves yield).

The authors conclude that coffee farmers don’t need to rely just on the presence of landscape-level forests to provide pollinator resources. They note, “…most coffee cultivators can only implement land-use changes within their own farms… Our study indicates that local habitat factors, managed within agroforestry systems, can have strong impacts on local bee abundance and diversity.”

Augochlora bee, one of the common genera found in this study, by graftedno1 under a Creative Commons license.

Jha, S., & Vandermeer, J. (2010). Impacts of coffee agroforestry management on tropical bee communities Biological Conservation, 143 (6), 1423-1431 DOI: 10.1016/j.biocon.2010.03.017

Corporate coffee / Nestlé/Nespresso

Nestlè strikes again

The Mexican government and the multinational food conglomerate Nestlè have partnered to increase the production of robusta coffee in nine of Mexico’s states. The majority of  coffee grown in Mexico is arabica. Robusta is grown by about 19,000 families on 34,000 hectares of land in the states of Chiapas, Oaxaca, Puebla, and Veracruz. Current estimates are that Mexico produces 150,000 to 240,000 60-kg bags of robusta annually, roughly 5% of total coffee production in the country.

The plan is to increase robusta production to 500,000 bags by 2012, with 2000 hectares being planted with new robusta trees this year*. Nestlè is supplying the high-yield stock, and ultimately the output will go to supply their Nescafè soluble coffee plant in Toluca, outside of Mexico City. Nestlè plans to increase the capacity of this plant by 40%, which will make it the largest instant coffee production facility in the world. Currently, 450,000 bags of coffee are imported into Mexico to fuel the instant coffee beast.

Many of Mexico’s coffee farmers are not happy about this plan, concurring with a 2006 FAO recommendation that robusta production in the country not be increased due to concerns about oversupply and farmer income. Let me add my environmental concerns to the mix.

Unlike arabica coffee, which can (and is, in much of Mexico) grown as an agroforestry crop under mixed shade, robusta is grown in the sun and will require the clearing of valuable lowland forests, no doubt substantial amounts of fertilizer and pesticides, and cause collateral environmental damage.

Deforestation is already a problem in Mexico; between 1990 and 2005, the country lost nearly 7.5% of its forests and woodlands. The problem is especially severe in the state of Veracruz with a loss of 22% of forested lands between 1993-2000.

Ironically, this will also impact arabica production in the highlands. At least one study [1] has shown that deforestation of tropical lowland areas reduces the moisture of the air flowing up adjacent mountains. This decreases montane humidity and increases the elevation of the cloud deck, altering the highland forested areas where arabica coffee is grown (not to mention impacting all the other biodiversity associated with these habitat changes). Simulations indicate that “…inland cloud forests like those of southern Mexico may be profoundly influenced by regional deforestation.”

Perhaps Mexico needs to rethink this strategy. The biggest beneficiary will be Nestlè’s profits. Although some farmers may see short-term gains, in the long run deforestation contributes to climate change, food insecurity, and loss of biodiversity. That’s a big price to pay for more cheap unsustainable instant coffee.

*It will require 9400 to 79,000 ha to produce a half million bags, with the low figure representing the production of some of Nestle’s highest yielding varieties, based on yields in the Philipines.

[1] Lawton, R. O., U. S. Nair, R. A. Pielke, Sr., and R. M. Welch. 2001. Climatic impact of tropical lowland deforestation on nearby montane cloud forests. Science 294:584-587.

Instant coffee photo by mat300 under a Creative Commons License.