Coffee news and miscellany

New Kenyan coffee varietal

Last year the Coffee Research Foundation (CRF) in Ruiru, Kenya released a new disease-resistant arabica varietal that has been in development for more than an decade. Named after the highest peak on Mt. Kenya, Batian is resistant to coffee berry disease and coffee leaf rust, the two common fungal diseases affecting coffee in Kenya and much of Africa.

The parentage of Batian is predominantly arabica, and it is closer genetically to the well-regarded SL28 and SL34 varieties than Ruiru 11, the rust-resistant varietal introduced in 1985. Varieties used in the development of Batian include SL4, N39, N30, Hibrido de Timor, Rume Sudan, and K7. They were repeatedly backcrossed with SL28 and SL34. The Hibrido de Timor is the naturally-occurring hybrid of arabica and robusta, and is often used in disease-resistant breeding due to its robusta heritage.

Of course, it is the robusta lurking in the background that tends to lower cup quality. According to the CRF, however, Batian cups far better than Ruiru 11 and even the parental SL varietals. Here’s a slide from a presentation by Dr.  Joseph Kimemia of the CRF (click to enlarge):Should we take that with a grain of salt (so to speak)? A tasting of these four varietals by the guys from Tim Wendelboe at the CRF did find Bastian rising to the top, but the cupping was a little suspect (e.g., poor examples of the SL28, for instance).

Why a new varietal?

Kenyan coffee production has been declining since at least 2001. There are a number of reasons for this, but in recent years part of the problem has been instability in the weather. Drought and heavy rain disrupt flowering and fruiting, and wet conditions also cause an increase in fungal diseases. Thus, a varietal that has more resistance to these diseases is welcomed by farmers.

In the case of Batian, it also matures faster than other varieties — in two years versus three. It is high yield, but Batian’s ability to boost production is in large part due to the fact it can be planted at twice the density of other typical varietals in Kenya, up to 2500 trees per ha. The end result is a yield of up to 5 tons per ha under optimal management, versus an average of 2 tons/ha. Batian also has a large bean size, which must also contribute to yield estimates.

What does this mean for the environment?

On the plus side, if Batian does show good resistance to fungal diseases (one news piece implies Batian has complete resistance), it may reduce the use of copper fungicides. While often considered allowable under many organic standards, their extensive and prolonged use on coffee in Kenya has resulted in soil contamination. Copper fungicides are already applied many times a year on Kenyan coffee. If rain is frequent, it must be reapplied more often because it is washed off (and fungal diseases are worse in wet conditions). If dependence on fungicides can be reduced or eliminated, this would be a huge accomplishment, and very positive for the environment.

There is a growing movement in Kenya, where most coffee is grown in the sun, to plant shade trees and also reforest many areas. I am not sure it is possible to grow many shade trees and also grow Batian at the recommended density, which is essentially a coffee tree every 2 m. But, (as pointed out in the comment section below and amended here) if farmers don’t have to worry about fungal diseases they may be more apt to plant shade trees.  (I will do a post on coffee berry disease and shade similar to the one on coffee leaf rust some time this fall.)

The CRF and government is also encouraging the planting of Batian in areas where it is currently not being grown, particularly in western Kenya.  Bungoma, Kasii, and Nyanza are current western coffee regions and I have not found details on whether these are the areas being targeted, or some other districts. It’s my understanding that west Kenya gets more rain than the central region where most coffee is grown, and that may be why Batian is being pushed there — coffee planted at high densities usually requires more moisture. Unfortunately, densely planted coffee often also requires heavy fertilization and the trees need to be replaced more often.

Combating diseases, declining yield, and climate change while maintaining quality in a sustainable manner is a challenge to coffee growers worldwide. One can hardly fault farmers for wanting to sustain or improve their livelihoods, or governmental agencies for working to stabilize or increase the production of a primary export crop.  Is another potentially sun-grown, high-input varietal the answer, or environmentally sustainable? We will have to wait and see.

Update: Download a PDF of a detailed 2012 presentation from the Coffee Research Institute seminar series.

Sips: Latest corporate coffee news

Some tidbits from the big four:

  • J.M. Smucker Completes Acquisition of Rowland Coffee. Smucker will now own Cafè Bustelo and Cafè Pilon as well as Folgers. Yippee.

    Love the old school can.

  • Sara Lee in talks for Brazil coffee brand. Sara Lee aiming to acquire or merge with Marata. Sara Lee already controls 22% of Brazil’s retail coffee market, and purchased Brazil’s Cafè Damasco last year.
  • How Kraft sells sustainability. Marc Gunther is a fellow member of the Society of Environmental Journalists, and has written a piece on how Kraft is trying to find ways that sustainability can drive growth. The company has determined that over 60% of its environmental impact comes from its supply chain, from the growing of agricultural products, including coffee. Gunther gleans the thoughts of Kraft’s VP of global sustainability (wait for it…) Steve Yucknut. This comes as Kraft announces that they are increasing their sustainability goals for the next few years. These goals include sourcing 100% of European coffee brands sustainably. The latter article again mentioned the 50,000 tons of Rainforest Alliance coffee Kraft purchased in 2010, which I will again remind you represents less than 7% of their total coffee purchases. They have a long way to go.
  • In an effort not to leave out the last, and largest, of the big four corporate coffee roasters, I took a look at Nestlè USA’s 2010 corporate responsibility report. Coffee was not mentioned. I did dig up a a piece on the reduction of the carbon footprint of Nescafè single-serve machines. You can just talk amongst yourselves on this one.

After the Harvest

When discussing the problems associated with commodity coffee, and why you need to pay a little more to make sure people and the environment are protected, I’ve actually had people tell me they have a “right” to cheap coffee. I often hear that certified coffees are too hard to find, and people tell me they’d buy sustainable coffee if only it were at the grocery store.

At least you have access to a grocery store.

There is no such thing as “cheap” coffee.

Please visit the After the Harvest web site to learn more about the large percentage of coffee farmers than do not have enough to eat for a portion of the year, and the organizations that are working on food security in the coffee lands.

A “new” species of coffee from Australia

Media outlets have picked up on a story about a new species of coffee, Coffea brassii, from Australia. In fact, this isn’t a new species, but a plant that has recently been reclassified by taxonomists from the genus Psilanthus. A number of species in that genus have moved around the genera Coffea, Paracoffea, and Psilanthus over the years. This latest reclassification to Coffea comes after recent molecular studies of dried herbarium material and includes five other Psilanthus. The work was part of project to sequence the DNA of the coffee family being conducted at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.

The range of Coffea brassii is northeastern Australia and Papua New Guinea, making it the only known Coffea native to Australia. It grows in monsoon forest, deciduous monsoon scrublands, and stabilized dunes at 15 to 150 meters. It is not kept in cultivation and little is known about it, so there are apparently plans to collect living specimens in Australia. The location is in northern Queensland, west of Cooktown, near Laura.

Here are some photos of other one of the other Psilanthus species being moved (P. bengalensis).

References:

Davis, A. P. 2010. Six species of Psilanthus transferred to Coffea (Coffeeae, Rubiaceae). Phytotaxa 10: 41—45

Davis, A. P. 2003. A new combination in Psilanthus (Rubiaceae) for Australasia, and nomenclatural notes on Paracoffea. Novon 13: 182-184.