JulieCraves

Climate change impacts on coffee nations

The Center for Global Development recently released data on the vulnerability of countries around the world to climate change. I’ve taken slices of two maps that show the latitudes where coffee is grown. Both maps rank agricultural productivity loss, with countries having the most impact in darker reds, less impact in oranges and yellows.

The top map shows risks due to physical climate change only. Coffee-growing nations (including those growing primarily robusta coffee) ranked at highest risk (top 15) for agricultural productivity loss due to the physical effects of climate change are Central African Republic and Democratic Republic of the Congo, Bolivia, Burundi, Rwanda, the Dominican Republic, and Haiti.

The second map takes into account vulnerability and adjusts these risks based on a given countries’ ability to cope with climate risks. All of the African countries remain in the top 15, with Burundi moving well up the chart (indicating that there are not policies and infrastructure in place to help farmers cope with climate change). Rwanda just leaves the top 15, but Ethiopia now makes the list. The Latin American countries — Bolivia, the Dominican Republic, and Haiti — all move well down the list, but Cuba comes in at 15.

Share it or spare it?

Intensifying production while conserving biodiversity

Food security and the ability of agricultural lands to feed over 9 billion people by 2050 is an increasingly-discussed topic. Part of this issue is how to conserve biodiversity while boosting agricultural capacity, either by increasing the productivity of land currently in production through some sort of intensification, or expanding the farmed area itself. Two methods of production are frequently mentioned in the overall debate: “land sparing” and “wildlife-friendly farming.” If this sounds familiar, it’s because these concepts have helped frame the sustainable/shade coffee certification movement.

Increasing yield is not the only way for coffee farmers to increase their income, of course. Increasing quality can also lead to handsome profits for farmers. However, most coffee grown around the world — in tropical biodiversity hotspots — is destined for the commodity market. A look at how the agricultural models attempt to balance productivity and biodiversity can reveal some of the complexities of coffee production, and the challenges for coffee certifications.

Land sparing. This approach promotes the intensification of agriculture on existing farmed land in order to increase yield so that more land does not have to be converted. This allows for adjacent land to be permanently preserved. Biodiversity within the crop space itself is limited, but the protected natural habitats are meant to harbor species native to the region.

The catch-all term for this type of coffee agriculture (minus the set-aside component) is “sun coffee,” as coffee is grown in a monoculture under full sun, rather than under a canopy of trees.  Growing coffee in the sun generally requires generous use of pesticides, herbicides, and artificial fertilizers.

Wildlife-friendly farming. As the name implies, this approach seeks to preserve biodiversity within the agricultural landscape via modifications of the production area (addition of different crops, incorporation of natural habitat) and/or more eco-friendly growing practices (reduction in agrochemical use, organic mulching).  A variety of fauna can utilize the farmed land, but this type of production method usually means lower crop yield per unit area.

In the case of coffee, wildlife-friendly farming means the use of a multi-layered canopy of diverse shade tree species, limited pruning of the shade trees and their epiphytes, preservation of leaf litter, and minimal (or no) use of chemicals — all hallmarks of what we call “shade coffee.”

Coffee certifications favor wildlife-friendly farming

When we talk about coffee production, birds, and conserving biodiversity, intensification is the boogeyman — the state to be avoided. Sun coffee has been considered the antithesis of shade coffee and all that is good in sustainable coffee growing. Thus, aspects of wildlife-friendly farming have become the building blocks of many coffee certifications. Some, like Smithsonian Bird-Friendly, deal exclusively with wildlife-friendly farming techniques while others, such as Rainforest Alliance, incorporate wildlife-friendly criteria along with other types of requirements for certification.

Wildlife-friendly coffee farming (from here on out, we’ll just call it shade coffee) is therefore the intuitive choice in the spare-or-share debate. But there are rarely one-size-fits-all solutions in ecology.  While the benefits of shade coffee to birds and other biodiversity are great, even high quality shade coffee does not hold the same levels of biodiversity as intact natural habitat. This is especially true for forest specialists that do not thrive in small forest remnants or agroforestry areas. Many of these important species are unlikely to reproduce and maintain their populations in shade coffee alone if there is not gene flow from nearby natural habitats. Some sort of land sparing (protection of native habitat on the farm) is likely needed to conserve species of high conservation concern in at least some areas, even if shade coffee techniques are used.

There are many variations of “shade.” There is rustic shade similar to forest, all the way to shade limited to a few pruned, non-native tree species. The closer we approach the latter, the less value a shade coffee farm has for biodiversity. Shade coffee may not be suitable if it creates expanses of marginal habitat for species that need high quality land, or if the production areas prevent the movement of some species between patches of prime habitat. Incorporating specific criteria into certification standards provides assurance that the amount and type of shade fosters biodiversity. Unfortunately, becoming certified is beyond the means of many farmers.

Another issue is that in some coffee-growing regions, growing coffee under shade is not practical. At high elevations, for instance, light and humidity levels limit growing coffee under multiple layers of shade because of increased fungal diseases and decreased yield. In these instances, where coffee is grown in sun, biodiversity need not be forsaken if some form of land sparing is utilized.

Should we revisit intensification of coffee production?

There is some evidence that the concept of land sparing can help prevent deforestation, which in turn helps preserve biodiversity. In Latin America during the 1980s, countries with a higher crop yields had lower deforestation rates, and countries that increased the crop yields per unit area had lower rates of cropland increase. Similarly, between 1970 and 1995, a period of intensification of coffee farming in Latin America, there was a 44% increase in production, largely due to intensification, while the area planted with coffee increased 27%. Colombia is a country that embraced intensification as a way to combat the arrival of coffee rust; between 1970-1997, more than 70% of the coffee area in Colombia intensified coffee growing practices. During this period, the area planted in coffee decreased 18.5% and forest and secondary growth increased 12.1%.

This suggests that with very careful planning, intensification of coffee production with planned land sparing could take place without disastrous results for the environment. Among other things, a land sparing scheme won’t work for biodiversity preservation unless the set-aside lands are actively protected and probably managed in some way so that they do not become degraded.

And while the production area itself can be farmed more intensively, it can’t be farmed in an “anything goes” manner. If intensification results in negative impacts beyond the farm (e.g., in the protected area, such as pesticide run-off), then the value of the protected area is likely to be diminished.

Finally, there needs to be some incentive for farmers to protect their spared land. Adjacent forest patches can provide benefits to coffee production even if the farmed area is sun coffee. This includes a source of pollinators as well as birds and insects which prey upon coffee pests. However, further financial benefits will likely need to be built into this scheme. If all economic gain is seen in the  high-yielding production areas of their property, farmers may be inclined to expand those areas at the expense of protecting habitat.

How do we integrate agriculture and biodiversity?

When ethical consumers consider a coffee purchase, they are often presented with a dichotomous view of coffee production. The reality is more nuanced. Full-blown “wildlife-friendly” farming may not be the only or best choice (or even an option for some farmers). And “land sparing” may not be its polar opposite. Coffee can be and is grown in a myriad of blended models. Consider patches of sun coffee, supplemented by some artificial fertilizers, using no pesticides, interplanted with natural habitat and fruit and timber trees, with protected forest nearby. In some instances, this could be preferable to an extensive landscape of shade coffee (especially low quality shade).

Right now, the obstacles to establishing criteria to certify blended models are daunting. For example, how do you set a threshold on how much land must be set aside? Is 60% better than 55%, and how can it be measured?  The amount and quality of land to be set aside would need to be determined on a regional basis, and be dependent on local land use, conservation issues, coffee farming traditions and conditions, and farmer needs.

This post is already long-winded, so it represent a simplification of a very complex issue. It’s not meant to endorse sun coffee or intensifying coffee production, or to disparage coffee certifications. It’s just an exercise to illustration the complexities of sustainable coffee production, and provide some food for thought.


This post drew from the following sources:

  • Fischer, J., Brosi, B., Daily, G., Ehrlich, P., Goldman, R., Goldstein, J., Lindenmayer, D., Manning, A., Mooney, H., Pejchar, L., Ranganathan, J., & Tallis, H. 2008. Should agricultural policies encourage land sparing or wildlife-friendly farming? Frontiers in Ecology and the Environment 6:380-385.

  • Green, R., Cornell, S.J., Schalemann, J.P.W., Balmford, A. 2005. Farming and the Fate of Wild Nature Science 307:550-555.

  • Guhl, A. 2008. Coffee production intensification and landscape change in Colombia, 1970-2002. Pp. 93-115 in Land Change Science in the Tropics: Changing Agricultural Landscapes, A. C. Millington and W. Jepson, eds. Springer: New York.

  • Phalan, B., Balmford, A., Green, R.E., & Scharlemann, J.P.W. 2011. Minimising the harm to biodiversity of producing more food globally. Food Policy, DOI: 10.1016/j.foodpol.2010.11.008

  • Rice, R. 1999. A Place Unbecoming: The Coffee Farm of Northern Latin America Geographical Review, 89 (4) DOI: 10.2307/216102

Eco-certified coffee: How much is there?

Latest update March 2021

When sales and market shares of various certified coffees come out, I try to put them together in a post. Each certification scheme tends to announce them at different times of the year, and provides slightly different data. I’ve decided to put the most salient data together in a table for four of the main coffee certifications with environmental criteria, plus Starbucks CAFE Standards (a third-party verified set of supplier standards), with past data for reference. I’ve standardized the unit to metric tons for easy comparison. Links on the year go to source information, which usually has more detail.

For a little perspective, world production in 2018 was about 10.4 million metric tons, and the U.S. imports around 1.5 to 1.6 million metric tons of coffee a year.  With the recent lowering of the environmental standards of Rainforest Alliance (merged with Utz as of 2018), only the only real benchmark we have of certified truly eco-friendly coffee is Smithsonian Bird-Friendly; this coffee must also be certified organic. Certified organic coffee comprises less than 10% of the global market (see note 3).

Hectares
certified
Production
(metric tons)
Sales in metric tons
(% of production)1
Smithsonian
Bird-Friendly
2008: 5000
2010: 7600
2012: 8650
2014: 5544
2018: 12,800
2006: 3600
2008: 2700
2010: 4400
2012: 4735
2014: 3524
2018: 8620
2006: 200 (5.5%)
2010: 206 (4.7%)
2014: ~325 (9.0%)
Rainforest Alliance2 2007: 200,000
2009: 305,383
2012: 323,500
2014: 360,000
2016: 387,000
2017: 411,519
2018: 470,841
2019: 470,611
2006: 27,152
2007: 41,494
2008: 123,766
2009: 168,114
2010: 219,337
2011: 245,000
2012: 375,000
2013: 454,962
2014: 458,058
2016: 509,000
2017: 557,911
2018: 655,314
2019: 669,698
2008: 62,296 (50%)
2009
: 67,583 (40%)
2010: 114,884 (52%)
2011: 129,864 (53%)
2013: 133,000 (37%)
2017: 289,485 (52%)
2018: 328,082 (50%)
2019: 393,550 (59%)
Organic3 2007: 546,541
2008:
463,500
2009:
560,368
2010
: 642,833
2011: 534,392
2014: 762,916
2016: 882,000
2017: 849,675
2008: 195,782
2009:
204,606
2010
: 230,819
2011: 248,767
2013: 248,000
2016: 447,000
2017: 370,000
2006: 30,000
2007: 38,000
2008: 117,560 (60%)
2009: 112,900 (55%)
2010: 117,960 (51%)
2011: 133,163 (53%)
2013: 133,000 (53%)
2017: 160,000 (43%)
Starbucks CAFE Practices4 20105: ~435,000 Same as sales,
see note 4
2007: 103,000
2008: 134,000
2009: 136,000
2010: 103,000
2011: 166,468
2012: 230,878
2013: 171,004
2014: 199,696
2015: 249,929
2017: 285,000
2018: ~294,000
2019: 310,000
UTZ Certified6 2006: 163,300
2010: 320,308
2011: 348,086
2012: 508,661
2013:473,953
2014: 473,953
2015: 476,953
2017: 592,977
2018: 770,423
2019: 720,250
2006: 108,500
2007: 218,358
2008: 308,464
2009: 365,010
2010: 394,003
2011: 476,903
2012: 715,648
2013: 726,591
2014: 729,918
2015: 821,399
2017: 857,803
2018: 1,102,826
2019: 1,083,649
2006: 36,000 (33%)
2007: 53,000 (24%)
2008: 77,478 (25%)
2009: 81,367 (22%)
2010: 120,994 (31%)
2011: 136,752 (28%)
2012: 188,096 (26%)
2013: 224,028 (31%)
2014: 258,867 (35%)
2015: 238,394 (29%)
2017: 365,091 (42%)
2018: 518,807 (47%)
2019: 589,522 (54%)

1 Not all coffee produced under certification criteria is sold as certified. For example, for convenience producers may sell their certified coffee “at the farm gate” to local traders rather than transport it through the supply chain per certification rules. The coffee can’t be sold as certified.

2 Generally, Rainforest Alliance figures come from their press releases.  2017-2019 data came from their Coffee Certification Data Report 2019. Hectares certified is for production area certified, not the total area of certified farms, which can include buildings, etc. and  is often a much larger figure. For example, in 2016, RA stated that coffee farmers safeguarded the health of 945,000 hectares, but showed production hectares as approximately 360,000.

3 Organic coffee statistics are not centrally aggregated and notoriously hard to parse. Figures on total land in organic coffee often come from The World of Organic Agriculture yearbooks based on research by the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture (FiBL). 2017 data from State of Sustainable Markets 2019.

4 Starbucks regularly publishes updates to their ethical coffee sourcing program on their web site. The figures here for production and sales are identical as they include only CAFE Practices sourced coffee.

5 Land area is extrapolated from data in 2011 Ethical Sourcing Factsheet stating that at least 102,000 ha are set aside for conservation on Starbucks’ suppliers farms, and that represents about 23% of total area verified under CAFE Practices. Figures for sales for Starbucks are actually purchases by the company under this program.

6 UTZ and Rainforest Alliance agreed to merge in 2017 and retain the Rainforest Alliance name. 2017-2019 data came from the Coffee Certification Data Report 2019 which retained figures from both certifications. After 2021 data should reflect coffee all under one umbrella. Older UTZ accomplishments and data are gleaned from past annual reports. Prior to 2017, at least, UTZ figures for sales are actually the amount of certified coffee purchased by the first buyer. The amount of coffee sold as UTZ certified is slightly lower.  UTZ and Rainforest Alliance merged in 2018.

Sips: Latest corporate coffee news

Some tidbits from the big four:

  • J.M. Smucker Completes Acquisition of Rowland Coffee. Smucker will now own Cafè Bustelo and Cafè Pilon as well as Folgers. Yippee.

    Love the old school can.

  • Sara Lee in talks for Brazil coffee brand. Sara Lee aiming to acquire or merge with Marata. Sara Lee already controls 22% of Brazil’s retail coffee market, and purchased Brazil’s Cafè Damasco last year.
  • How Kraft sells sustainability. Marc Gunther is a fellow member of the Society of Environmental Journalists, and has written a piece on how Kraft is trying to find ways that sustainability can drive growth. The company has determined that over 60% of its environmental impact comes from its supply chain, from the growing of agricultural products, including coffee. Gunther gleans the thoughts of Kraft’s VP of global sustainability (wait for it…) Steve Yucknut. This comes as Kraft announces that they are increasing their sustainability goals for the next few years. These goals include sourcing 100% of European coffee brands sustainably. The latter article again mentioned the 50,000 tons of Rainforest Alliance coffee Kraft purchased in 2010, which I will again remind you represents less than 7% of their total coffee purchases. They have a long way to go.
  • In an effort not to leave out the last, and largest, of the big four corporate coffee roasters, I took a look at Nestlè USA’s 2010 corporate responsibility report. Coffee was not mentioned. I did dig up a a piece on the reduction of the carbon footprint of Nescafè single-serve machines. You can just talk amongst yourselves on this one.