Research on coffee growing

The quest to grow caffeine-free coffee

The science journal Nature recently ran a great article outlining the problems in growing an ultra-low or caffeine-free variety of coffee, particularly one that would be commercially-viable. It goes over the pitfalls of various attempts at developing and cultivating a species or strain of Coffea that would produce naturally caffeine-free beans, including hybridization and genetic engineering.

Decades of study have clarified how Coffea plants synthesize caffeine, the alkaloid that provides a measure of pest control to the plants. But manipulating the genes in Coffea arabica has not resulted in plants that reliably produce caffeine-free beans.

There are over 100 species of Coffea, and quite a few produce little or no caffeine. I wrote about one caffeine-free species from the Cameroon, described in 2008. Genetic compatibility problems have proven a barrier in transferring the caffeine-free property from other species to Coffea arabica. Wild, low-caffeine species of coffee have other bitter alkaloids that stand in for caffeine as pest protection, so cross-breeding with arabica has resulted in low cup quality. Individual plants of Coffea arabica that produce little or no caffeine have also been found, and arabica seeds have even been soaked in chemicals to induce mutations. Still, cross-breeding, cloning, and other techniques have so far failed to produce coffee with enough of the right stuff and less of the wrong stuff.

The article is open access, and I’ve included a list of related scientific literature below for more information.

Campa, C., Doulbeau, S., Dussert, S., Hamon, S., and Noirot, M. 2005. Diversity in bean caffeine content among wild Coffea species: evidence of a discontinuous distribution. Food Chemistry 91:633—637.

Mazzafera, P., Baumann, T. W., Shimizu, M. M., and Silvarolla, M. B. 2009. Decaf and the steeplechase towards decaffito—the coffee from caffeine-free arabica plants. Tropical Plant Biology 2:63-76.

Nagai, C., Rakotomalala, J. J., and Katahira, R. 2008. Production of a new low-caffeine hybrid coffee and the biochemical mechanism of low caffeine accumulation. Euphytica 164:133—142.

Ogita, S., Uefuji, H., Yamaguchi, Y., Koizumi, N. and Sano, H. 2003. RNA interference: Producing decaffeinated coffee plants. Nature 423: 823.

Silvarolla, M. B., Mazzafera, P. and Fazuoli, L. C. 2004. Plant biochemistry:  A naturally decaffeinated arabica coffee. Nature 429:826.

Photo by Chris Brown (zoonabar) under a Creative Commons license.

Corporate coffee / Smucker's

Let’s try this again

Shareholders will again propose that Smucker’s develop a coffee sustainability plan

JM Smucker Co., owner of coffee brands including Folgers, Millstone, Kava, and Café Bustelo, is the fourth largest buyer of coffee in the world. In 2010, they purchased over 250,000 tons of coffee, and only a fraction of a percent was certified in any way. A recent analysis by the Tropical Commodity Coalition notes that the company “does not provide verifiable procurement figures of certified coffees, has no specific goals for a more sustainable coffee sector, and its future commitment is extremely vague.”

Readers will recall that last year two major investors, Trillium Asset Management and Calvert Investments, put forth a shareholder proposal requesting that Smucker’s prepare a sustainability report.  The Smucker’s Board unanimously recommended that shareholders vote against this proposal. Nonetheless, at the August 2011 meeting,  roughly 20% of shareholders voted in favor of the proposal, with another 10% abstaining, for about a third not agreeing with the board*. (You can read the whole story with background here.)

This year, a similar shareholder proposal will be presented. The resolution, filed recently by Trillium Asset Management, requests that Smucker’s, within six months of the annual meeting, develops and publishes a coffee sustainability plan that goes beyond the insipid 2011 “plan.” This proposal will specifically ask that the plan include:

(1) quantitative goals for quantities of certified coffee purchases; (2) a method for evaluating the success of the plan in addressing the challenges of climate change to the Company and the farmers and ecosystems in its coffee supply chain.

American consumers continue to reward Smucker’s. The U.S. retail coffee segment contributed 49% of the total profit for the company in the quarter ending in January 2012; this segment reported a profit margin of 21.7%.

From their nostalgic ads featuring a bygone era, to their honoring of centenarians via Willard Scott, to their antediluvian view of sustainability and transparency, Smucker’s is stuck in the past. Hopefully this proposal will meet with some success at the annual meeting this summer and move Smucker’s into the present day.

*Another interesting proposal has been filed by a different group, asking that Smucker’s follow the Security and Exchange Commissions standard for proxy vote counting. Currently, Smucker’s counts all abstaining votes as votes in favor of management. Abstentions, where shareholders want their vote noted but not counted, are not figured into the SEC  formula. Counting these as in favor of the management seems to clearly be against the wishes of the abstaining voters.

Coffee regions / Research on coffee growing

Research: Puerto Rican shade coffee and biodiversity

Shade-grown coffee in Puerto Rico: Opportunities to preserve biodiversity while reinvigorating a struggling agricultural commodity. Borkhataria, Collazo, Groom, and Jordan-Garcia. 2012. Agriculture, Ecosystems, and Environment.

Even though coffee was first planted in Puerto Rico in 1736, we don’t hear much about it. In part, this is because much of the coffee grown there is consumed there. Still, coffee was PR’s major crop in the early 1800s, but hurricanes, high labor costs, low yields and other problems diminished its importance. Government support has been largely responsible for its persistence, and this included recommendations to increase yield by converting to sun coffee in the late 1980s, with any “shade” farms directed to use widely spaced trees and total shade not exceeding 30%. According to agricultural statistics summarized in the first paper noted above, there were 15,144 ha of coffee in PR in 2007 on over 5,600 farms which averaged 20 ha.  Over 69% of this land was characterized as sun coffee.

Authors also surveyed a random sample of 100 coffee farmers (nearly all of which answered the questions regarding shade). A third of the farmers considered their coffee shade coffee, and another 21% said they had both shade and sun coffee. However, when evaluated by the surveyors, the actual number of farms that could be considered traditional or polyculture shade was only 8%. This points out the clear problem of a lack of an agreed-upon definition of “shade”!

Most PR coffee farmers receive some sort of governmental assistance, often in the form of fertilizers. One farmer interviewed said he preferred to grow under shade, but grew a few hectares of coffee in sun in order to have access to incentives. About 70% of the farmers said they’d be willing to plant shade trees if they were encouraged by the government and if shade trees were provided to them.

The authors recommended government practices which would help promote production that protected biodiversity, took advantage of markets that favored sustainable agriculture, and made incentives were more available to farmers wishing to grow shade coffee.

Borkhataria, R., Collazo, J., Groom, M., & Jordan-Garcia, A. (2012). Shade-grown coffee in Puerto Rico: Opportunities to preserve biodiversity while reinvigorating a struggling agricultural commodity Agriculture, Ecosystems & Environment, 149, 164-170 DOI: 10.1016/j.agee.2010.12.023

Birds and other biodiversity / Know Your Coffee Birds series

Know your coffee birds: Malabar Barbet

The Malabar Barbet (Megalaima malabarica) is a bird that is endemic to India. Once considered a subspecies of Crimson-fronted Barbet, Megalaima rubricapillus, which has a broader range, the Malabar Barbet is found in only the Western Ghats from Goa south to Kerala and western Tamil Nadu. There, it inhabits evergreen and moist deciduous forests, generally below 1200 m, and is often found in high quality shade coffee plantations.

Coffee plantations cover about 6% (around 830,000 ha) in the Western Ghats, and while all the coffee is grown under shade, the quality of the shade varies. A diverse mix of native shade trees is the highest quality, and it has been found that these types of farms have similar diversity of birds and other wildlife as is found in nearby forests — the same situation is true in Latin America. However, various laws and restrictions on cutting native trees (which could provide value to wildlife and as harvestable timber, for example) are much more strict in India. This, in part, has led to the widespread planting of silver or silky oak (Grevillea robusta), a fast-growing tree native to Australia.

Western Ghats in pink and purple; purple portion is approximate range of Malabar Barbet.

Although Grevillea has flowers that can be attractive to nectar-feeding birds, it does not have fleshy fruit, important to many birds. Because it is harvested for timber, the areas where it is planted are subject to periodic disturbance and alteration. One study* found that in shade coffee farms in the Ghats, an increase in the proportion of silver oak from 33% to 55% was associated with 91% reduction in the abundance of the Malabar Barbet. This is more evidence that certifications that merely require shade as a percent of canopy cover will not help enhance or preserve biodiversity — “shade” certification should also include a mix of shade tree species and a requirement that a percentage of them be native species.

Barbets in general are small-to-medium, stout birds with short tails, big heads, and strong, thick bills. They are found all over the world in tropical regions. Barbets eat primarily fruit, and Malabar Barbets, like many other species, forage in the forest canopy (perhaps one reason there are few good photos of this species!). Ficus trees and their fruits are especially important. While many small fruit-eating birds swallow fruits whole, Malabar Barbets will also sit and pick on fruits too large to swallow. Ficus are often used as shade trees in shade coffee farms in India.

Barbets are related to woodpeckers, and like them nest in tree holes. Malabar Barbets typically use holes that they excavate themselves which are located on the underside of small branches, where they raise one or two young per nest. Thus, it is important for them to have trees with dead branches in their territories for nesting — something that isn’t too typical on a shade coffee farm where Grevillea is harvested.

There are nearly many species of birds found only in the Western Ghats. A number of them use shade coffee farms either directly, or as corridors that connect more suitable forest habitat.

Photo of the Malabar Barbet taken in the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, Kerala, by Sandeep Gangadharan under a Creative Commons license.

*Anand, O. M., J. Krishnaswamy, and A. Das. 2008. Proximity to forests drives bird conservation value of coffee plantations: implications for certification. Ecological Applications 18:1754-1763.