April 2011

Rainforest Alliance Cupping for Quality – April 2011

As promised in the last post, here are the winners of the Rainforest Alliance Cupping for Quality awards from the April 2011 cuppings, which covers countries in Latin America, Ethiopia, and India. The award is designed to recognize exceptional coffees carrying the Rainforest Alliance seal and to highlight the linkage between sustainable farm management practices and cup quality.

In the April cupping, 76 coffees from 10 origins competed. Aside from the origins of the top ten winners noted below, the other competing countries were Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and the Dominican Republic.

  1. Aguadas Rainforest Group (Alegrias, El Diamante, Villahermosa), Colombia (89.00). Located in the Andean rainforest in northern Colombia, the group has over 1800 ha under certification, at 2100 m.
  2. Sidama Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union, Ethiopia (86.79). Also Fair Trade.
  3. El Diviso, Colombia (86.46). Near TimanÁ¡, Huila at 1550 to 1700 m.
  4. COMICAOL, Honduras (86.07). A cooperative out of El ParaÁ­so, growing at 900 tp 1500 m.
  5. Santa Teresa, El Salvador (85.71). A rather well known estate located in the Apaneca-Ilamatepec region, near Ahuachapan, part of the Cofinanzas Estates. Also produces Smithsonian Bird-Friendly certified coffee from its certified organic crop.
  6. Jumboor Estate, Tata Coffee Ltd., India (85.50). Tata is a very large company running multiple farms. Jumboor is in northern Coorg (which is in southern India), growing S795 (which has Kents variety in its background) and HDT x catuai on 370 ha at 915 m.
  7. Finca Kassandra, Mexico (85.46). In central Veracruz, at 1200 to 1500 m.
  8. El Guayabito, Catalina, Los Naranjos, San Antonio, Colombia (85.36).
  9. Finca el Zapote, Guatemala (85.35).
  10. ADESC, Guatemala (85.29).

Congratulations to all the participating certified farms.

Rainforest Alliance Cupping for Quality – Dec 2010

The Rainforest Alliance Cupping for Quality award breakfast at the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) annual trade show is always the first function we attend each year at this event. The award is designed to recognize exceptional coffees carrying the Rainforest Alliance seal and to highlight the linkage between sustainable farm management practices and cup quality.

The number of farms that are RA certified, and thus participating in the award program, has grown a lot since the awards began in 2003. Last year, RA sought to manage this growth by having two annual cuppings and awards, divided by geography. In December, coffees from the southern hemisphere — including Brazil, Peru, Kenya, Tanzania and Indonesia — compete. These are the results of the December 2010 cupping, which included coffee from 35 competitors. In my next post, I’ll give the most recent winners, announced this morning at the breakfast.

  1. Quecha, Peru (85.88). A brand of the CECOVASA farmer cooperatives, the Quecha coffees are grown at 1400 to 1750 meters in the Sandia valleys region of the Andes. CECOVASA is Fair Trade certified, and about half the members grow organic-certified coffee. Since 1998, CECOVASA has worked with Conservation International, and two years ago was recognized for its work preserving biodiversity by the Peruvian ministry of the environment. Last year, another CECOVASA coffee, Tunki, placed second in this competition (it also won best of origin in the SCAA Coffee of the Year competition), and Quecha came in 5th. Congrats to this hard-working federation for the excellent coffees they are producing, in a really sustainable manner!
  2. Wahana Grahamakmur (exporter), Indonesia (83.65).
  3. Fairview Estate, Kenya (83.23). Managed by Coffee Management Services. Growing the SL28 variety on 121 ha at 1750 m. Natural forest on the property is preserved, reforestation efforts have taken place, as has the planting of shade trees. Also UTZ certified.
  4. Thiriku Farmers Co-op Society, Kenya (83.02). Nyeri – SL28 and SL34 at 1700 m.
  5. Ipanema Agricola, Brazil (82.96). An enormous enterprise, often considered the largest single producer in the world, at 2600+ ha. They do produce single-farm brands, but no information on the particular source of this coffee was given.
  6. Ibonia Estate, Kenya (82.81). Managed by Coffee Management Services.
  7. Fazenda Itaoca, Brazil (82.75). 215 ha total, of which 30% is reserve land, in Mantiqueira region, southern Minas Gerais.
  8. Korona Enterprise Ltd, Papua New Guinea (82.67). Female owned from near Aiyura in the Eastern Highlands.
  9. Yandini Estate, Kenya (82.46). Managed by Coffee Management Services. Also UTZ Certified.
  10. Baragwi Farmers Co-op Society, Kenya and Kandara Farmers Co-op Society, Kenya (tie, 82.17). Baragwi has 1200 members, and is in Kirinyaga district and grows both SL28 and SL34 at 1600 m. Kandara grows SL28 and Ruiru 11 varieties at 1600 to 1800 m in the Kandara area, and this was one of the first producer organizations in Kenya to get RA certification.

Previous results reported on here:

A “new” species of coffee from Australia

Media outlets have picked up on a story about a new species of coffee, Coffea brassii, from Australia. In fact, this isn’t a new species, but a plant that has recently been reclassified by taxonomists from the genus Psilanthus. A number of species in that genus have moved around the genera Coffea, Paracoffea, and Psilanthus over the years. This latest reclassification to Coffea comes after recent molecular studies of dried herbarium material and includes five other Psilanthus. The work was part of project to sequence the DNA of the coffee family being conducted at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.

The range of Coffea brassii is northeastern Australia and Papua New Guinea, making it the only known Coffea native to Australia. It grows in monsoon forest, deciduous monsoon scrublands, and stabilized dunes at 15 to 150 meters. It is not kept in cultivation and little is known about it, so there are apparently plans to collect living specimens in Australia. The location is in northern Queensland, west of Cooktown, near Laura.

Here are some photos of other one of the other Psilanthus species being moved (P. bengalensis).

References:

Davis, A. P. 2010. Six species of Psilanthus transferred to Coffea (Coffeeae, Rubiaceae). Phytotaxa 10: 41—45

Davis, A. P. 2003. A new combination in Psilanthus (Rubiaceae) for Australasia, and nomenclatural notes on Paracoffea. Novon 13: 182-184.

Growing coffee at home

People are always interested in the coffee I have grown from seed at 189 meters in southeast Michigan without a greenhouse. Since I’ve just reached a milestone with my oldest plants — flower buds! — I thought I’d show everybody the family album, and provide some tips, for what they’re worth.

I started out by collecting fallen ripe cherries in Panama in January 2008. Some were from Finca Hartmann near Santa Clara in Chiriqui, some from a Starbucks supplier (Finca La Florentina) in Volcan, Chiriqui. I probably had three dozen beans, which I attempted to germinate the way I sprouted lima beans as a kid — in damp paper towels against the side of a clear plastic cup. I’ve refined this a bit to layering them flat between damp paper towels in a covered seed starting tray. I’ve found that perhaps 20% will sprout, but it takes 3 or 4 months. Other folks have had good luck with soaking the beans in water 24 hours, then doing the paper-towel thing.

After a 4-month wait, some coffee sprouted. It seems to take another month or so before the first leaves can finally shed the bean!

Once there was several millimeters of both root and stem, I transplanted them into sterile potting soil mix in peat pots. For future “crops” I have tried to use more compost (coffee has pretty high nitrogen requirements).

The first leaves are round.

The peat pots were prone to falling apart. I placed the peat pots into another tall, deep, clear plastic cup with potting soil cut with a fair amount of coarse sand. I placed marbles in the bottom of the cup, and sliced a bunch of drain holes in the cup. I was worried about drainage, and wanted to keep track of root growth.

Five seedlings went outside against a west-facing wall under shade.

In fall, I brought them in the house, and put them under a grow-light set up. Still, by March they looked really crappy. I think it was both some lack of nutrients, nitrogen, perhaps and not enough light. I had been fertilizing with a weak solution of orchid fertilizer, but apparently that wasn’t doing the job.

This coffee needs some TLC, or maybe N-P-K.

Repotted and back outside, they seemed to recover by mid-summer.

Summer vacation against an east-facing wall, no overhead shade.

Meanwhile, I picked up some more cherries at Finca Esperanza Verde in San Ramon, Nicaragua in March 2009. This time I looked for over-ripe, but not dessicated, fruit. About 30% of the beans sprouted in roughly three months. All the plants came indoors again in the winter. I don’t have a lot of windowsill room, but the Panama plants and some of the Nicaragua seedlings got moved around to various sills, and some of the Nicaragua plants went under lights. They all made it through the winter, not as anemic as the winter before, but without having grown much at all

Smaller Nicaraguan plants had been on a windowsill, the one on the right under the lights.

The Panama plants wintered in front of a west-facing window.

Once again, lots of growth in the summer. In fact, I had a hard time finding pots deep enough for the roots that weren’t equally as wide. I finally ordered these “tree pots” from a nursery supply company. Cheap, lightweight, available in many sizes, they were perfect. When I repotted, I used organic potting soil with NO additives (so many come with time-release fertilizer) and at least 30% sand.

All the coffee, plus an orchid, on summer vacation.

Late last fall, I decided that the plants were doing too well to let them decline over the winter. I purchased a good lighting set up: One four-foot Sun Blaze T5 fluorescent fixture with four 6500K (blue) bulbs. It was ready to hang, and allows for expansion (daisy-chaining additional fixtures). I also purchased two four-foot T5 fluorescent 3000K (red) bulbs, which I figured I’d use next winter to induce blooming. I put the fixture on a timer for 12 hours of daylight a day. At the same time, I started using Earth Juice “Grow” fertilizer/micro-nutrient nearly every time I watered. Prior to this, I usually only fertilized with organic fertilizer or worm/compost “tea” in the summer when the plants were outside, or orchid fertilizer or house plant fertilizer inside.

The results were amazing, and I attribute it to both the light intensity and hitting on the right fertilizer. Lots of lush growth — I had to prune several of them.  We have a whole-house humidifier, but I still worry about humidity under these lights, which do get pretty warm. I try to spray-mist them every day.

We don’t even need to close the bedroom curtains in the winter! The farm now has a name, in honor of Sophie and Juniper, the feline caretakers.

Last week when I was rotating their positions, I noticed several of the Panama plants were starting to bud!

Buds! Present on three of the five Panama plants so far. Conceivably, these could be leaf buds, but I’ve never had leaves emerge from the axils before.

Uno gato (Juniper) for scale. She has munched her share of coffee leaves, and I have to take care to keep her off the finca. Naughty girl.

I’m pretty sure these are all caturra, except one tall, rangy plant that may be typica or even geisha. It was from an area where all three varieties were being grown. However, this plant is growing in a heavier garden soil (I ran out of potting soil when I was transplanting) and also spent one winter on the windowsill versus under lights. Not sure that would account for the different growth style or not. Opinions welcome!

Typica rather than caturra? I had already pruned off about 8 inches from the top and some of the side branches prior to this photo.

Last month, I picked up more cherry in Nicaragua. Since I’m running out of room here at Finca Dos Gatos, I decided to only try starting some yellow cataui from El Jaguar. I also picked up only a couple of cherries I found from coffee growing wild in the forested part of Selva Negra, right next to the spot where I saw my first Resplendent Quetzals. I thought a coffee plant from that location would be a great memento.

Tom Owen at Sweet Maria’s has a nifty guide to coffee growing at home.

UPDATE: I’ve given a photo update in late October 2011.

Sips: Speculation, shares, sharp words

Recent noteworthy news pertaining to sustainable coffee:

  • Someone worked out how a coffee CSA can work: pick some farmers, buy some shares, enjoy coffee you invested in.
  • The last word on Keurig single-cup brewers and why they and their ilk pose a real danger to specialty (and sustainable) coffee, from Jim Pellegrini of Muddy Dog Roasting. The post is a little profane, but please digest the background, get to the part about patent expiration, and read the comments. My feelings about these brewers and the issues around them have evolved quite a bit over the past few years, and Jim’s thoughts really bring on a new perspective.
  • A lucid post on how speculation works in the coffee commodity markets from the Equal Exchange blog Small Farmers, Big Change.
  • A quick compilation of coffee production: 74 countries ranked at Environmental Geography.

How much does eco-certification cost?

Introduction

Third-party certifications are great aids to consumers who want to know their coffee was produced under specific standards. Coffee produced under various certification schemes is still a pretty small fraction of total global production. One frequent question I get is why more coffee isn’t certified (Bird-Friendly, organic, etc.), or why the coffee costs more for the consumer. Part of the answer is that certification is expensive for farmers, and often for other players further up the supply chain. If farmers cannot make up these additional expenses in the sale price of their coffee (and, they frequently are not), the added expenses are not worth it.

A number of different types of expenses are involved in obtaining and maintaining certified status. Most producers will have to take steps to conform to the criteria outlined in the standards of the certification they are seeking. This can involve capital outlay, increased labor, etc. Then the farm or production unit has to pass an inspection by an auditor from an authorized certifying agency; these agencies typically charge a per diem fee plus transportation and other costs. There is usually a fee for the certification itself —  to the certifying agency and/or to the organization that developed the standards (i.e., Rainforest Alliance, Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center). Finally, all certifications require periodic audits and renewals which incur costs.

Because coffee production systems vary so widely, and certifying agencies all have their own fee schedules, it’s difficult to pin a precise dollar amount on how much it costs a given farm (or unit of production) to get one of the major certifications. Below, I’ll present some guidelines, fees, and variables that give a sense of the cost of obtaining and maintaining certification. I’ve only included the three certifications that are most concerned with ecological standards, and therefore incur costs related to growing methods.

Costs that influence any coffee certification

Costs to meet the standard. The major coffee certifications have a whole suite of rules and standards that must be met. Some are elaborate and complex, especially the standards set by the U.S. Department of Agriculture for products sold as organic in this country. Few farms will be able to meet all these standards without some adjustments.

  • Meeting the various standards could include a wide variety of time, labor, and material outlay. Examples might be starting up a major organic composting program, planting native trees, constructing wastewater treatment facilities, or soil testing.
  • For organic certification, there is a three-year conversion period after the farmer stops using prohibited materials. During those three years, the producer farms organically, but cannot sell his crop as organic or receive any price premiums.
  • Costs to bring a farm into compliance with ecological criteria such as shade cover, riparian buffers, etc. can be significant. For example, Rainforest Alliance has criteria relating to setting aside or enhancing natural habitat. In one study (CI 2005), two estates in Brazil reported this cost was $10,000 to $50,000 for consulting fees, seed and plant material, planting, and management of these areas. In addition, there was the opportunity cost of losing this land from production. Another study in El Salvador (Romanoff 2010) found the average cost of on-farm investment to achieve Rainforest Alliance or Starbucks CAFE Practices conservation and environmental standards only was  $58/ha ($42/ha for farms larger than 100 ha, $61/ha for smaller farms, 43 farms surveyed). Total costs to meet all the standards, plus needed technical assistance, was $111/ha for larger farms, $156/ha for smaller ones.
  • Even if a farm produces coffee in a manner that complies with many, most, or all of the requirements set forth by a particular certification, it’s up to the farmer to prove it. This involves forms and paperwork. On the plus side, this typically improves farm management by forcing a fair amount of organization and administrative streamlining. On the downside, literacy levels of many producers can make this challenging.

Auditing expenses. An auditor has to come and inspect the farm, check all the paperwork, and make sure the farm is in complete compliance with the standards. Each certification scheme authorizes various certification agencies around the world to perform this work (e.g., OCIA International, Biolatina). Usually, one agency can perform audits for multiple certifications, if needed. Factors influencing the price of this audit include:

  • The number of certification organizations/bodies available in the producer’s area (a higher number leads to more competition and therefore lowers prices).
  • The speed with which an auditor works and the size of the operation being audited (most charge a per diem rate, so the longer they are on site, the more it costs to perform the audit).
  • Distance to travel to the audit location, as well as they condition of the roads (transportation costs and time add to the cost of the audit).

Continuing indirect costs. Once certification standards are met and the certification is awarded, there are usually on-going costs in addition to annual inspections.  All certifications have some sort restrictions that require segregation of coffee and chain of custody documentation, and  internal controls and compliance. For organic (and therefore Bird-Friendly) and standards that include environmental criteria, there are the added labor costs of weeding, pruning, pest control, and production of organic compost. Losses in yield are common in both shade and organic production systems after the transition from conventional farming, and may increase as time goes on.

Specific costs for major coffee certifications

Again, I’ve only included the three certifications that are most concerned with ecological standards, and therefore incur costs related to growing methods.

ORGANIC

Direct costs to producer: Organic certification fees vary, since each agency sets its own fee schedule. They are based on the size of the production unit, previous years’ sales, and which or how many different countries (and therefore different standards) the crop will be certified to sell to. In addition, a fee ranging from $150 to $300/day is charged is charged for the inspection itself, plus transportation and other costs. Conversion to organic takes three years once a producer complies with the standards. Initially, there are annual audits the first two years, with a certification audit in year three.

Potential annual direct costs: Annual audits are required. Random audits also occur. As one example, for a single producer with about 20 ha of coffee, the cost was over $3,000 per year (pers. comm.). To help control costs, there is a provision in the National Organic Program (which regulates products sold as organic in the U.S.) that every single producer in a cooperative with many small holders do not need to be inspected every year. Only a percentage of producers are inspected annually on a rotating basis (this ruling has come under fire, as recently as 2007). Thus, total costs are spread over all members, which reduces the cost for each member. In one Mexico case study, the cost was $1300 to $1550 per annum per producer organization (Potts et al. 2010).

Costs further up supply chain: Other players up the supply chain who handle organic coffee must also be certified. As they do with producers, costs to other parties vary depending on the certification agency and size of the operation being certified. This has been estimated at $700 to $3000 a year [SCAA 2010].

RAINFOREST ALLIANCE

Direct costs to producer: In October 2010, Rainforest Alliance changed how it levied fees. The coffee importer is now primarily responsible (see Costs further up the supply chain, below). Previously, RA charged a fee to producers for certification at the rate of $5/ha for group certification and $7.50/ha for individual farms.

Costs of audits are still paid by the producer, although sometimes buyers help with costs. A study from Brazil(CI 2005) for larger producers (Ipanema Coffees was one, and is one of the largest producers in the world) stated that annual audit costs were between $1000 and $5000. A study in El Salvador (Romanoff 2010) found Rainforest Alliance audits cost up to $3.61/ha, but varied depending on the efficiency of the auditor.

Costs further up supply chain: The first buyer of the green coffee pays a Participation Fee of $0.015/lb of green coffee sold.

SMITHSONIAN BIRD-FRIENDLY

Direct costs to producer: BF-certified coffee must be certified organic, so those costs apply. Many organic certification bodies are also accredited to audit for BF certification. There is a “symbolic” fee for the BF certificate.

Potential annual direct costs: Re-certification audits for BF every three years, but are combined with organic audits.

Costs further up supply chain: Importers pay $100 a year to use the BF logo, and roasters pay $0.10/pound to do so (down from $0.25/lb) [SCAA 2010]. Fees go to Smithsonian to support program costs and bird conservation research.

Parting thoughts

Due to the wide range of variables, these guidelines only give a sense of the costs involved in environmental certifications, but nonetheless may be eye-opening to the average consumer. Of course, some context is necessary, and the topic of whether the costs of eco-certification is worth it to a “typical” producer is the subject of another post. Still — it’s worth a quick example. We’ll take some statistics from a paper examining this issue (Valkila 2009):

80% of the farmers in in Nicaragua have less than 3.5 ha of coffee. The average yields of organic small farmers are 329 kg/ha. Thus, the “typical” organic small-holder produces 2539 pounds of coffee. Let’s give that farmer a very good price, reflecting current high prices and assuming it goes right to the farmer: $2/lb. That gives the farmer $5078 gross income for the year to provide for his family, pay for farm inputs and improvements, etc., etc. The cost of the annual audit alone for organic certification puts a pretty big dent in that.

Of course, the variation in yields, farm size, production costs and so on, added to multiple factors in certification costs, make these calculations merely illustrative, but at least provide a bit of context.

Sources and more information

[CI] Consumers International. 2005. From Bean to Cup: How Consumer Choice Impacts upon Coffee Producers and the Environment. Consumers International and International Institute for Environment and Development, London. 64 pp.

Millard, E. 2011. Incorporating agroforestry approaches into commodity value chains. Environmental Management 48:365-377.

Potts, J., J. van der Meer, and J. Daitchman. 2010. The State of Sustainability Initiatives Review 2010: Sustainability and Transparency. International Institute for Sustainable Development.

Romanoff, S. 2010. Shade coffee in biological corridors: potential results at the landscape level in El Salvador. Culture and Agriculture 32:27-41.

[SCAA] Specialty Coffee Association of America, Sustainability Council. 2010. Sustainable coffee certifications comparison matrix.

Valkila, J. 2009. Fair Trade organic coffee  production in Nicaragua — sustainable development or a poverty trap? Ecological Economics 68:3018-3025.

Photo from iStockphoto, used under license.