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For the term "finca esperanza verde".

Nicaraguan shade coffee: Finca Esperanza Verde

Last winter, I spent some time in Chiriqui, Panama, and visited some coffee farms. I summarized what I found in my post “What shade coffee looks like.”

I’ve just returned from Nicaragua, where I spent a week at Finca Esperanza Verde doing bird and insect surveys, and especially bird banding. FEV is located near San Ramon in the central highlands of Nicaragua’s Matagalpa department. It consists of about 106 ha, of which 10 are in active coffee production; a handful cover the organic garden, small coffee washing facility, and eco-lodge; and the rest are in native forest, forest restoration, and fallow shade coffee.

We were participating in the fifth year of a banding project initiated by the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences, and the research was done entirely in the coffee production area, shown above.

In the shade continuum from rustic to shaded monoculture described in my introductory post “What is shade-grown coffee,” the production areas I saw fell into the highly desirable traditional polyculture category. Recall that one reason certifying shade coffee can be so complex is that coffee is often grown in a matrix of different crops and land uses and varying levels of shade management depending on location within a farm.  Yet every area I visited at FEV had the same lush growth and diverse shade.

FEV is certified organic, and is being actively courted by Rainforest Alliance for certification and use as a model farm. I believe FEV also qualifies for Smithsonian Bird-Friendly certification, and that is being looked into as well. More on that in a future post.

Leaves from the shade trees provide a thick, natural mulch for the coffee, and help curtail soil erosion and moisture loss while offering nutrients.

Even more so than the areas we visited in Panama, Finca Esperanza Verde and other shade coffee farms are critical to birds and other wildlife in Nicaragua. We were stunned at the deforestation. It’s not due to human development, but to agriculture (mostly non-commercial) and (especially) cattle grazing. Shade coffee farms appeared to be one of the only land uses that preserved a lot of native trees.

During our brief stay, we counted well over 100 bird species, including nearly two dozen species of migratory songbirds that breed in North America. Over 30 species of migrant songbirds have been recorded at the finca, and the overall bird list is approaching 300 species. We observed or banded several species new to the finca ourselves.

You can read more about the migratory bird species we encountered at the Rouge River Bird Observatory’s blog Net Results. I thought I would cover some of the resident species here, focusing on a few of the species that we banded. Bird banding is an excellent complement to bird surveys — some of the most common bird species we saw were rarely captured, and we rarely observed many of the species we captured.

Crimson-collared Tanagers (Ramphocelus sanguinolentus) favor areas of dense shrubs in second growth, but will also come to trays of fruit placed at feeding stations.

White-breasted Wood-wren (Henicorhina leucosticta) is a forest species that favors dense tangles, especially around fallen trees.

Cocoa Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus susurrans) prefers gallery forest and older second growth, and forages on large trees by probing the bark, epiphytes, mossy clumps, and vines — which wouldn’t be left on trees in intensively managed coffee farms.

I was happy to band several Black-headed Nightingale-Thrushes (Catharus mexicanus), since they are closely related to the species that I research at home. These shy, elusive birds prefer thick cover and forage mostly near the ground or in the leaf litter, conditions they would not find on a sun coffee farm.

Not only is this farm great for biodiversity, it produces fantastic coffee. It placed 10th in the 2007 Nicaraguan Cup of Excellence. Coffee from Finca Esperanza Verde is sold exclusively to Counter Culture Coffee, where it is the main component of their Cafe San Ramon.

Finca Dos Gatos: 2015 update

Regular readers may recall that I have done a series of posts on my experiment with growing coffee here at home. All of our trees were ready-to-harvestgrown from seed collected at various coffee farms we have visited in our travels. In honor of our two cats, we named our growing collection “Finca Dos Gatos.” Past posts are:

Since that last post, we moved, necessitating some adjustments to our set-up. Mainly, it was getting hard to manage the larger trees. So we have given a number of them away, including a couple to people who have greenhouses. I left myself with a few favorites.

The current inventory consists of:

Recently stumped coffee tree.

Recently stumped coffee tree.

  • Two trees from Finca Hartmann, Santa Clara, Panama, 2008. I have already had to prune (behead) both of these, they were just getting too large. One I’ve done twice, the last time just recently; it is currently a stump. The other I did last year, and it has a lot of new growth.
  • Finca Esperanza Verde, San Ramon, Nicaragua, 2009. One large tree from which we just harvested a crop of cherries.
  • El Jaguar, Jinotega, Nicaragua, 2011. A yellow caturra or catuai.
  • Selva Negra, Jinotega, Nicaragua, 2011. From a feral plant growing in the cloud forest reserve there, along the exact part of the trail where I saw my first Resplendent Quetzals.
  • A stumped tree after about a year of re-growth.

    A stumped tree after about a year of re-growth.

    Near Pico Bonito, outside La Ceiba, Honduras, 2011. This is a catimor that was growing at a lower elevation.

  • A couple of seedlings from some of the fruit I harvested.

Some new lessons

One critical issue I ran into after the move was water. We have well water here with a very high iron and mineral content, so it goes through a water softener. With everything that was going on, I did not give this proper consideration, and after a few months of watering with the softened water, the plants really suffered. I didn’t do lasting damage, but did end up watering only with rain water or jugs of good old Detroit city water I lugged home from work.

New growth on the catimor is a nice bronze color.

New growth on the catimor is a nice bronze color.

We still put the coffee outside in the summer, but our deck faces west and gets sun even under the overhang late in the day. I have learned that just like the veggies started indoors, coffee needs to be “hardened off” when going outside. They need protection from direct sunlight for a couple weeks; the leaves scorch easily. After awhile they can stand more sun, but not for long periods, especially in hot weather.

Finally, they still live under lights from about September through May. My previous system used a four-bulb fluorescent fixture with 6500K blue spectrum lights. To induce blooming, I withheld most water for a few weeks, then watered like crazy, and switched out half the lights to 3000K red spectrum bulbs. Now that I have fewer trees and a nice room that gets good sunlight, I use just a single full-spectrum 60 watt bulb hanging within two feet of the trees. This is a great, inexpensive alternative, especially if you have only a few plants. The four-foot fixture provides more even and brighter light, but my southern exposure makes up the difference.

I’ve had plenty of fruit from these trees, although any given harvest isn’t really enough to roast itself. I’ve accumulated enough now that we could make a couple cups, but given that some of the green beans have been sitting in a cupboard for a couple years, I’m not sure how tasty the final result would be. Once the younger trees start producing good crops in two years, I’ll coordinate the flowering of all of them and see if I can’t do a proper harvest, processing, roasting, and tasting!

cherry

The latest pickings.

 

Finca Dos Gatos…harvest!

Finally, ripe cherries!

This is my third post regarding my growing (literally) little coffee farm in southeast Michigan. My first post, Growing coffee at home, documented my initial attempts at germinating coffee beans I collected on a trip to Panama in January 2008, one of which flowered in April 2011. My second post, Update on Finca Dos Gatos, covered the bean development, transplanting, and other outdoor accommodations.  Here is one more update.

Panama plants

These were my original plants, which I grew from seed collected around Volcan, Panama. The chronology:

  • Seeds harvested from ripe cherries in January 2008.
  • Seeds germinated in May 2008.
  • First flower buds: 12 April 2011, only on one plant.
  • Flowers opened 25 May 2011.
  • Two fruit begin to develop 15 July 2011.
  • Fruit full size, but green September 2011.
  • Fruit finally begins to ripen mid-February 2012.
  • Fully ripe and harvested by mid-March.

The last interesting thing about this crop was that after I picked the cherries and removed the skin, I discovered that both contained peaberries instead of two flat beans. This occurs due to one of the ovules not developing, usually from lack of fertilization. Arabica coffee is self-pollinating, but perhaps this is to be expected when there are only two flowers! After the two beans dried, I noticed they are much less dense than a normal bean…nearly as light as a roasted bean. My first crop is just souvenirs.

Nicaragua plants

I have collected seeds twice from Nicaragua. My first batch was from Finca Esperanza Verde which I planted in March 2009. These germinated in June 2009, and now have their first flower buds. I have three plants and have given others away.

The second set was collected in March 2011 from El Jaguar and Selva Negra; they germinated in mid-May 2011. I’ve given away some seedlings and have chosen to keep just two plants: one from Selva Negra and one of the yellow catuai variety from El Jaguar.

In November, I performed an experiment where I provided a “dry season” for the Panama and first batch of Nicaraguan plants. I restricted water for a couple weeks, then stop watering for three weeks. Then, I watered like crazy, and began switching over the fertilizer from the Earth Juice ”Grow” to the Earth Juice “Bloom”.  Further, I swapped out half the lights in the system to 3000K red spectrum bulbs instead of 6500K blue lights (Sun Blaze T5 in four-foot fluorescent fixtures).

And sure enough, I have a ton of flower buds, which began to develop in early February. Although the first time around, the buds developed quickly, in a month, so far all the buds I have are growing slowly, and have not yet opened.

Honduras – new additions

In November 2011, I was in Honduras. This trip was not to coffee farms, as we were staying in a lowland area on the northern coast. However, there was coffee growing in the region, and I picked up cherry from a semi-tended plot owned by the Lodge at Pico Bonito that had both coffee and cacao, as well as some at Pico Bonito itself. Traditional old varieties of arabica coffee don’t grown at this altitude with the heat and humidity. I figured it must be some varietal that included robusta heritage, and Daniel Humphries identified it from photos as catimor, a hybrid between caturra and Hybrido de Timor (itself a naturally-occurring hybrid between arabica and robusta).

In Honduras, two lines of catimor are common. One is IHCAFE 90, released in the 1990s and derived from the T5175 line out of Portugal or Brazil. The other is Lempira, from the T8667 line out of Brazil.

I had a bunch of it sprout by mid-January, and gave away some seedlings, saving a couple for myself.

Cacao

Okay, this is a coffee “finca” but I had to see if I could also grow some cacao, which was growing all over the place, including outside our cabin and next to the coffee. Here are some trees at Pico Bonito with their bizarre unripe pods.

These pods are tough and leathery and often have to be opened with a machete, but animals had opened some and we were able to retrieve the large seeds. I read that they must always be kept warm and moist, so I wrapped them in damp paper towels. No long wait like coffee. By the time I got home a few days later, they were beginning to sprout.

By early December, I had little plants about five inches tall.

In order to maintain a little more warmth and humidity, I constructed a little enclosure for the three cacao plants by wrapping overhead transparency plastic around a wire bird feeder squirrel-excluder. It sits on top of a cheap, twelve-inch plastic flower pot saucer. Another saucer went on top.

I look forward to bringing the finca outdoors for the summer, when I know everything will take off; the cacao should especially enjoy our hot, humid Michigan summer.  Perhaps I’ll do one more update with photos of more of my coffee in flower, and any resulting crop.

Cloud forest coffee at Finca El Jaguar

Because of the elevation of the farm and transpiration of the surrounding cloud forest, El Jaguar is covered with these misty clouds for at least a portion of nearly every day. Light levels and humidity, therefore, do not allow the coffee itself to be grown under multiple layers of shade, such as would be required by Smithsonian Bird-Friendly certification. Yields would decline and fungal diseases would increase. Rather, 80% of the property has been set aside in cloud forest reserve, and multiple bird research projects take place here since the owners are dedicated to conservation. El Jaguar is Rainforest Alliance certified.

Finca El Jaguar is located in northern Jinotega, Nicaragua, about 188 km north of the capital Managua. The property was acquired in 1991 by Georges Duriaux and Liliana Chavarria from Lili’s brother.  At about 100 ha (247 ac), it is both a private reserve registered with the  Nicaraguan ministry of natural resources, and a coffee farm. Eighty ha of the farm is preserved forest, and 20 ha are in coffee.

Coffee in shadows of foreground, a portion of the large forest reserve in the background.

The coffee consists of caturra and some catuai grown at 1300 to 1350 meters. El Jaguar has been certified by Rainforest Alliance since 2006, and Allegro Coffee (owned by Whole Foods) is the exclusive buyer. The farm employs 15 to 20 people year-round, and 30 to 40 additional people during coffee harvest. Of particular pride to Georges and Lili is the fact that several of the workers’ children are involved in bird research activities.

Over 270 bird species have been recorded at El Jaguar. More than 50 are Neotropical migrants (those that primarily breed in the U.S. and Canada and winter in the tropics), including an amazing 27 species of “our” warblers — Golden-winged Warbler, the endangered Golden-cheeked Warbler, and the Cerulean Warbler among them. Due to this rich bird life, El Jaguar was designated as an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International in 2006.

In addition to preserving habitat and providing eco-lodging for birders, Georges and Lili have worked tirelessly on bird conservation projects. Since 2002, they have operated two of the eleven wintering bird banding stations in Nicaragua that are part of the important MoSI project (Monitoreo de Sobrevivencia Invernal — Monitoring Overwintering Survival).  One is in the forest, and one in the coffee production area. This project is an essential tool that enables researchers to gain insight into what bird species winter in an area, the habitats they use, and their overwinter survival. A sister project monitors resident birds from April to October.

This is the coffee, planted with bananas and other trees, next to the bird banding station in the coffee area.

Georges and Lili Duriaux—Chavarria record bird data.

Additionally, Georges and Lili are involved in special projects including the Golden-winged Warbler Working Group and similar project to benefit the Wood Thrush.

The colorful Rufous-winged Tanager (Tangara lavinia) was just one of the birds banded in the forest reserve during our visit.

Jean-Yves Duriaux, a recent graduate of EARTH University, has a wealth of knowledge about sustainable agronomy he is applying to the farm.

Until recently, El Jaguar’s coffee was also certified organic. Due to burdensome new (?) rules that we heard about in multiple places, their ability to adequately fertilize their coffee by organic means meant that they had to make the difficult decision to drop organic certification. This is being repeated at other farms in Nicaragua, and will be the topic of another post. Georges and Lili, and their son Jean-Yves who is managing the farm, are still just committed to conserving biodiversity. This year’s increased yield (over triple last year’s, due in large part to using conventional fertilizers) provided the income needed to continue preserving the current forest acreage and stay afloat.

During our visit, we talked a lot about Rainforest Alliance certification.  The Duriaux—Chavarria’s were enthusiastic supporters, and it gave us much-needed perspective on the impact of RA certification on the ground. Although El Jaguar has had long-term contracts with Allegro for years, they explained that RA certification strengthens their position and helps them negotiate a better price. The certification process improves quality and sustainability, and RA provides guidance and assistance. In fact, RA has held workshops at El Jaguar for neighboring farmers, and the next step is working with them to get them certified. This dovetails with training Georges and Lili have already provided to neighbors on biological resources and sustainable production, as well as a grant they received to help provide native trees to reforest nearby properties and encourage other farmers to pursue certification.

Coffee was already flowering last week at El Jaguar.

There are challenges ahead for El Jaguar and other coffee producers. Of note was the fact that the weather, influenced by La Nina conditions, caused early flowering and fruiting. Harvest was early this season, and complete by the time we arrived. Meanwhile, the coffee was again beginning to flower while we were there, which means the next harvest will be around two months earlier than “usual.” Café loco.

As we did two years ago, we also stayed at Finca Esperanza Verde. At a few hundred meters lower in elevation, the coffee all over that area was greatly defoliated by fungal disease, also exacerbated by wet weather. They are usually treated with copper-based fungicides. Some of these have typically been permitted under organic certification, but, again, we heard that now farmers were told they were not allowed to use them. If that’s really the case, it’s hard to see how producers will be able to afford to keep organic certification.

Read more about El Jaguar, birds, shade coffee, and Georges and Lili in this wonderful Audubon Magazine article.

Coffee review: Whole Foods (Allegro) Finca El Jaguar

Plainspoken Coffee. A Coffee Review for Ordinary People by OrdinaryPeople, #19.

Finca El Jaguar is a family-run farm in Nicaragua’s Jinotega province, 188 km north of the capital Managua. The farm is also a registered private reserve under the Alianza Para Las Areas Silvestres (ALAS), a bird conservation organization. It includes 70 acres of protected cloud forest, 60 acres of managed forest, and over a dozen coffee plots totaling 34 acres.  Another 35 acres is grassland.  The coffee is certified organic.

El Jaguar offers eco-lodging, with birders and researchers welcome. The farm is one of seven sites in Nicaragua with a wintering bird banding program, part of the important MoSI project (Monitoreo de Sobrevivencia Invernal – Monitoring Overwintering Survival).  This project is an essential tool that enables researchers to gain insight into what bird species winter in an area, the habitats they use, and their overwinter survival. Another Nicaraguan organic shade coffee farm and ecolodge is working on establishing a MoSI station, Finca Esperanza Verde. Their coffee is sold in the U.S. as Counter Culture Matagalpa Cafe San Ramon.

We have already posted on the importance of Nicaragua to birds, Nicaraguan coffee in general here.

Thus, it is a pleasure to review a coffee from a farm that represents what we focus on here at Coffee & Conservation — Allegro Coffee Roaster’s Finca El Jaguar, available at Whole Foods Markets. Finca El Jaguar was a recipient of Allegro’s High Five for Farmers program in 2003, which donated $4,000 to make improvements to the local school.

Allegro’s Finca El Jaguar is a light roast (full city), with a great, fresh, slightly nutty aroma. It was very smooth, and while not endowed with many distinctive flavors, it had a nice body and enough richness for one reviewer to comment that it would make a great afternoon cup. This is not a coffee that will knock your socks off — it has a classic coffee profile variously described by our reviewers as “simple,” “benign,” and “soothing.”  The Risky Kingbird noted, “It’s not too complicated — and I appreciate that.”  We gave it 3 motmots.

This coffee also garnered 90 points at Coffee Review.

I will add that the MoSI stations across Latin America and the West Indies operate on a shoestring, with local researchers enduring hardships and primitive conditions to do this important work.  You can sponsor a station for a winter season for only $300.  For more information sponsoring a MoSI station, visit the Institute of Bird Populations web site.

Growing coffee at home

People are always interested in the coffee I have grown from seed at 189 meters in southeast Michigan without a greenhouse. Since I’ve just reached a milestone with my oldest plants — flower buds! — I thought I’d show everybody the family album, and provide some tips, for what they’re worth.

I started out by collecting fallen ripe cherries in Panama in January 2008. Some were from Finca Hartmann near Santa Clara in Chiriqui, some from a Starbucks supplier (Finca La Florentina) in Volcan, Chiriqui. I probably had three dozen beans, which I attempted to germinate the way I sprouted lima beans as a kid — in damp paper towels against the side of a clear plastic cup. I’ve refined this a bit to layering them flat between damp paper towels in a covered seed starting tray. I’ve found that perhaps 20% will sprout, but it takes 3 or 4 months. Other folks have had good luck with soaking the beans in water 24 hours, then doing the paper-towel thing.

After a 4-month wait, some coffee sprouted. It seems to take another month or so before the first leaves can finally shed the bean!

Once there was several millimeters of both root and stem, I transplanted them into sterile potting soil mix in peat pots. For future “crops” I have tried to use more compost (coffee has pretty high nitrogen requirements).

The first leaves are round.

The peat pots were prone to falling apart. I placed the peat pots into another tall, deep, clear plastic cup with potting soil cut with a fair amount of coarse sand. I placed marbles in the bottom of the cup, and sliced a bunch of drain holes in the cup. I was worried about drainage, and wanted to keep track of root growth.

Five seedlings went outside against a west-facing wall under shade.

In fall, I brought them in the house, and put them under a grow-light set up. Still, by March they looked really crappy. I think it was both some lack of nutrients, nitrogen, perhaps and not enough light. I had been fertilizing with a weak solution of orchid fertilizer, but apparently that wasn’t doing the job.

This coffee needs some TLC, or maybe N-P-K.

Repotted and back outside, they seemed to recover by mid-summer.

Summer vacation against an east-facing wall, no overhead shade.

Meanwhile, I picked up some more cherries at Finca Esperanza Verde in San Ramon, Nicaragua in March 2009. This time I looked for over-ripe, but not dessicated, fruit. About 30% of the beans sprouted in roughly three months. All the plants came indoors again in the winter. I don’t have a lot of windowsill room, but the Panama plants and some of the Nicaragua seedlings got moved around to various sills, and some of the Nicaragua plants went under lights. They all made it through the winter, not as anemic as the winter before, but without having grown much at all

Smaller Nicaraguan plants had been on a windowsill, the one on the right under the lights.

The Panama plants wintered in front of a west-facing window.

Once again, lots of growth in the summer. In fact, I had a hard time finding pots deep enough for the roots that weren’t equally as wide. I finally ordered these “tree pots” from a nursery supply company. Cheap, lightweight, available in many sizes, they were perfect. When I repotted, I used organic potting soil with NO additives (so many come with time-release fertilizer) and at least 30% sand.

All the coffee, plus an orchid, on summer vacation.

Late last fall, I decided that the plants were doing too well to let them decline over the winter. I purchased a good lighting set up: One four-foot Sun Blaze T5 fluorescent fixture with four 6500K (blue) bulbs. It was ready to hang, and allows for expansion (daisy-chaining additional fixtures). I also purchased two four-foot T5 fluorescent 3000K (red) bulbs, which I figured I’d use next winter to induce blooming. I put the fixture on a timer for 12 hours of daylight a day. At the same time, I started using Earth Juice “Grow” fertilizer/micro-nutrient nearly every time I watered. Prior to this, I usually only fertilized with organic fertilizer or worm/compost “tea” in the summer when the plants were outside, or orchid fertilizer or house plant fertilizer inside.

The results were amazing, and I attribute it to both the light intensity and hitting on the right fertilizer. Lots of lush growth — I had to prune several of them.  We have a whole-house humidifier, but I still worry about humidity under these lights, which do get pretty warm. I try to spray-mist them every day.

We don’t even need to close the bedroom curtains in the winter! The farm now has a name, in honor of Sophie and Juniper, the feline caretakers.

Last week when I was rotating their positions, I noticed several of the Panama plants were starting to bud!

Buds! Present on three of the five Panama plants so far. Conceivably, these could be leaf buds, but I’ve never had leaves emerge from the axils before.

Uno gato (Juniper) for scale. She has munched her share of coffee leaves, and I have to take care to keep her off the finca. Naughty girl.

I’m pretty sure these are all caturra, except one tall, rangy plant that may be typica or even geisha. It was from an area where all three varieties were being grown. However, this plant is growing in a heavier garden soil (I ran out of potting soil when I was transplanting) and also spent one winter on the windowsill versus under lights. Not sure that would account for the different growth style or not. Opinions welcome!

Typica rather than caturra? I had already pruned off about 8 inches from the top and some of the side branches prior to this photo.

Last month, I picked up more cherry in Nicaragua. Since I’m running out of room here at Finca Dos Gatos, I decided to only try starting some yellow cataui from El Jaguar. I also picked up only a couple of cherries I found from coffee growing wild in the forested part of Selva Negra, right next to the spot where I saw my first Resplendent Quetzals. I thought a coffee plant from that location would be a great memento.

Tom Owen at Sweet Maria’s has a nifty guide to coffee growing at home.

UPDATE: I’ve given a photo update in late October 2011.

Sips

We have just returned from a 10-day trip to Nicaragua, where we did insect and bird surveys, and bird banding, at two great coffee farms, Finca El Jaguar in Jinotega, and  Finca Esperanza Verde in San Ramon. I’ll be posting about that soon. Meanwhile, some coffee news from when I was away.

  • FLO (Fairtrade International, the standards-setting organization) has responded to skyrocketing market prices for coffee with adjustments to Fair Trade pricing. As of April 1, 2011, the Fair Trade minimum price will increase by $0.15, to $1.40 per pound for washed Arabica and to $1.35 for Arabica naturals. The organic premium will increase from $0.20 to $0.30 per pound. The community development premium goes from $0.10 to $0.20 per pound, and $0.05 of that must be invested in quality improvement programs at the farm and/or cooperative level.
  • A great new website on sustainable agriculture has just rolled out, with a focus on India’s coffee and tea plantations: Ecoagriculture. I especially like the visualization of the Rainforest Alliance/Sustainable Agriculture Network’s certification principals.
  • The mainstream media is printing more and more about the effect of climate change on coffee growing. Here are two recent examples, from the Miami Herald (Costa Rica) and the New York Times (Colombia). Note both discuss the introduction of heat-tolerant and disease-resistant varieties (which may not be as high quality as heirloom types).
  • What does all this mean? Debating the fate of coffee.
  • Mermaid in a K-Cup: Starbucks and Green Mountain Coffee Roasters strike a deal.

Know your coffee birds: Wilson’s Warbler

The tiny, bright yellow bird that John  James Audubon called “Wilson’s Flycatching Warbler” breeds in a large swath all across northern North America. Wilson’s Warblers winter in much of Central America, and so pass through most of the continent at some point during the year. Molecular studies have shown that certain breeding populations winter in specific geographic areas. For instance, the most northerly-breeding birds of the western population winter the furthest south in Central America.

Females have duller caps.

One of the original names of Wilson’s Warbler was “Pileolated Warbler” after the male’s striking black skullcap, or pileum. As one of the warblers that has a flattish bill bordered by specialized feather “whiskers” to aid in the capture of small insects, the descriptor of “flycatching” or “flycatcher” was added to its name several times through history. Because he was the first to formally publish a description, ornithologist Alexander Wilson is now honored in the common name.

In the breeding season, the typical habitat of Wilson’s Warblers is dense thickets, especially moist ones in riparian areas. In the winter, however, it can be found in a much wider variety of habitats, which are often more open than nesting habitats. It is most abundant in tropical forests, cloud forest, pine-oak forest, and forest edge habitat, and is frequently found on coffee farms.

While many bird species tend to be somewhat set in their behavior at certain times of the year, wintering Wilson’s Warblers may be solitary, either roaming through a locality or forming a territory, or found in mixed flocks of other birds.  In addition to insects and some fruit, nectar is also consumed in winter. This flexibility in habitat requirements, behavior, and food resources has no doubt contributed to the success of Wilson’s Warblers, which remain one of our most common warblers. Yet recent population trends indicate numbers have declined 2% a year in the U.S., and over 4% a year in the eastern U.S. in recent decades. This is a well-studied species, but we need to know more to understand how to best conserve them. Unfortunately, we often neglect to take action with common species until serious problems are evident.

We have found Wilson’s Warblers common on coffee farms we visited in Panama and Nicaragua. We are about to travel once again to Nicaragua, where we will spend time at Finca El Jaguar in Jinotega, and once again visit to Finca Esperanza Verde in San Ramon, Matagalpa. You’ll be hearing more about our trip soon!

Top male Wilson’s Warbler photo by David Hofmann, female by Jean-Guy Dallaire, and bottom male by Pablo Leautaud, all under a Creative Commons license.

Know your coffee birds: Rufous-capped Warbler

The Rufous-capped Warbler (Basileuterus rufifrons) is found through much of Central America, north through Mexico. This species is occasionally found in the southwestern U.S., when it creates a sensation among birders.

This warbler is a common resident of shade coffee farms all year long, where it can be the dominant foliage-gleaning species. This is a foraging method where birds pick off insects from the upper and undersides of leaves. Many birds that occupy coffee farms make the most use out of remaining forested patches, the canopy trees, and associated epiphytes — thus the importance of shade-grown coffee to birds. Rufous-capped Warblers are in the minority in that they also forage within the coffee layer as well.

Two of my former Rouge River Bird Observatory student volunteers co-authored a paper on Rufous-capped Warbler foraging habits on a shade coffee farm in Chiapas, Mexico [1]. They knew from previous research that many resident species like the warbler that use shade coffee move to other habitats once wintering migrants from North America arrive, perhaps to reduce competition. Rufous-capped Warblers stay put, but shift from their foraging in all the layers of vegetation to focusing on the coffee and shrub understory in the winter. This is also likely due to competition for resources, since many North American migrants prefer to forage in the canopy layer.

This shift to lower foraging heights was in evidence when we visited Finca Esperanza Verde in Nicaragua, where we caught multiple Rufous-capped Warblers in the coffee production area, including the one photographed above.

This is just another example of the complex interactions between resident and migratory birds in the tropics, an intricate dance coordinated over thousands of years of evolution. The Rufous-capped Warbler has adapted well to shade coffee production. Let’s drink shade-grown coffee, and keep them around.

[1] Seasonal shift in the foraging niche of a tropical avian resident: resource competition at work? Jedlicka, J., R., Greenberg, I. Perfecto, S. M. Philpott, and T. V. Dietsch. 2006. Journal of Tropical Ecology 22:385-395.

Photo by Darrin O’Brien, all rights reserved, used with permission.

Know your coffee birds: Wood Thrush

The Wood Thrush, a relative of the familiar American Robin, is often considered a symbol of the population declines of birds that nest in North America and winter in the tropics. This species has been declining since the mid-1960s, and is on the National Audubon Society’s 2007 WatchList of declining birds.

Wood Thrushes nest in forests over much of the eastern U.S. Like most other songbirds, they migrate at night. These thrushes travel an average of 2200 km between their nesting areas and wintering grounds in Central America.

In the winter, Wood Thrushes are most common in primary and mature second growth forests, and they can be a familiar site on polyculture shade coffee farms from Mexico to Panama. For instance, they are the most commonly banded species at the gorgeous shade farm Finca Esperanza Verde in Nicaragua — we caught and saw a number of them when we were there in March 2009.

One reason for Wood Thrush declines may be tropical deforestation. At least one study has found a correlation between reduced numbers of Wood Thrushes and reduction in forest cover in the northern portion of their wintering range [1].

Wood Thrushes will choose and defend a territory in the winter, much as they do when they are nesting. However, as forests are destroyed in the tropics (including for sun coffee), Wood Thrushes are forced to become nomadic — a case of too many Wood Thrushes and other species, and not enough space. These thrushes must move from place to place, or settle in habitat that is low quality. These birds are less likely to survive the winter than individuals who have territories in a good forest patch [2].

Here in North America, habitat fragmentation is considered another cause of Wood Thrush population declines. As in the tropics, Wood Thrushes can be found in small woodlots or low quality habitat, but their chances of successfully raising a brood are greatly diminished in these situations. In fragmented forests, predators are more common, as are Brown-headed Cowbirds, which lay their eggs in the nests of other birds, often targeting Wood Thrushes. These factors contribute to dramatic rates of nest failure in some locations.

The Wood Thrush and coffee connection is so iconic that this bird has been found on the coffee packages or web sites of Birds and Beans, Coffee for the Birds, Audubon Coffee, and Counter Culture Sanctuary Coffee, to name a few. Wood Thrushes are considered “area sensitive,” needing good, intact forests throughout their annual cycle. High-quality shade coffee plantations represent essential habitat for this species, and your choice of coffee has a direct impact on the survivorship of Wood Thrushes and other birds that rely on tropical forests.

Wood Thrush photo by Eddie Calloway under a Creative Commons License.

[1] Rappole, J. H., G. V. N. Powell, and S. A. Sader. 1994. Remote-sensing assessment of tropical habitat availability for a nearctic migrant: the Wood Thrush. In Miller, R. I. (ed.). 1994. Mapping the diversity of nature. Chapman & Hall, London, England.

[2] Deinlein, M. 1998. A “Sing”-ular Sensation. Wood Thrush: Bird of the Month. Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center.

Know your coffee birds: Violet Sabrewing

One of the most enduring memories of my visit to Finca Hartmann is that of passing a spot that was frequently visited by a vivid male Violet Sabrewing (Campylopterus hemileucurus), a large tropical hummingbird found from southern Mexico to western Panama. Many of us in the U.S., especially in the east, think of hummingbirds as diminutive creatures. Violet Sabrewings, however, are big, spectacular birds the size of sparrows. The males are a brilliant dark violet while the females are largely metallic green. Both sexes have white-tipped outer tail feathers that flash as they hover and flit about. They are unmistakable and not soon forgotten.

Violet Sabrewings are most common at 900-1650 meters, the same elevations at which coffee is grown. These hummingbirds like open forests or edge habitats where they can find an abundance of flowering plants, and are found on most bird lists of shade coffee farms within their range.

Hummingbirds are among the most important pollinators, especially in the tropics. Many tropical plants have co-evolved with their specialized hummingbird pollinators, so that the flower is shaped in such a way that only a hummingbird with a matching bill can pollinate it. Violet Sabrewings pollinate a wide variety of flowers, and utilize a foraging strategy known as long distance traplining. They repeatedly visit flowers along a long, fixed route.

Coffee itself is rarely pollinated by hummingbirds (arabica coffee is self-pollinating, although fruit set increases when bees help cross-pollinate). Therefore, sabrewings and other hummingbirds are rarely found in sun coffee farms, but are reliant on the other flowering trees and plants found in shade coffee. Trees in the genus Erythrina are commonly used to shade coffee, and most tropical species are pollinated only by hummingbirds. Bananas and plantains, also frequently used in shade coffee, heliconias, and various ephiphytes are all very important to Violet Sabrewings and other hummingbirds. This plant diversity is not found in sun coffee, but shade coffee farms provide excellent habitat for these dazzling birds.

Another important feature for Violet Sabrewings found in shade coffee farms is nesting habitat. This species inevitably nests on the branch of a tree or shrub over a small stream (we found several nests near creeks at Finca Esperanza Verde). Some source of running water is characteristic of most coffee farms in Latin America, which use the washed or wet processing method. Without streamside vegetation, it’s unlikely Violet Sabrewings could nest successfully.

Another group of organisms depends on hummingbirds to complete their life cycle. Known as hummingbird mites, these tiny invertebrates live and reproduce in flowers, feeding primarily on the nectar. There is only one way for these specialists to move between plants: in the nostrils of hummingbirds. Mites that need to move to another flower of  their specific host plant (when the flower is dying) must clamber onto the bill and into the nostrils of a hummingbird in the brief few seconds the hummingbird is probing the flower. The mites recognize the scent of their host plants, and have an equally brief time to disembark into a new flower.

Hummingbird mites do not harm the birds; in ecological terms this is known as phoretic commensalism, when one species (the mite) uses another (the hummingbird) just for transportation. The mite benefits, the bird is not affected.

Swaths of sun coffee fragment hummingbird habitat, creating barren deserts essentially void of these beautiful birds, all for the want of a cheap cup of coffee. Save hummingbirds (and hummingbird mites!), drink sustainably-grown shade coffee.

Top photo by Jerry Oldenettel, second by Doug Greenberg, under Creative Commons licenses. Violet Sabrewing nest at Finca Esperanza Verde by Darrin O’Brien and Julie Craves, all rights reserved.

Shade coffee at HowStuffWorks

There’s an article up on the popular Discovery web site HowStuffWorks on shade coffee. The author contacted me a couple of months ago; Coffee & Conservation is cited frequently as a resource (under the common alias “Coffee Habitat”) and my photos of Finca Esperanza Verde from this post are used in the sections “Growing coffee in the shade” and “How shady is shade coffee?”

Speaking of Finca Esperanza Verde, the new crop is now available from Counter Culture Coffee as Cafe San Ramon. I can personally vouch for the shade, birds, and biodiversity present on this farm. I’ve just started drinking my first bag, and it’s excellent as always.

Know your coffee birds: Emerald Toucanet

The Emerald Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus prasinus) is the most widely distributed member of the toucan family. It can be found from Mexico through Central America south to Bolivia. As might be expected for a species with such as broad geographic range, there are many subspecies — at least 17. They vary by throat color, facial pattern, and the color and pattern of the bill. Some researchers believe that some of these may actually be separate species, with perhaps four different species in Central America, and at least three in South America.

Emerald Toucanets are, as the name implies, smaller than toucans, at a little over a foot long. The sexes look alike, although males have slightly larger bills than females. Nobody is positive why this difference exists, as one study discovered it is not related to differences in diet or foraging (which is often the case when both sexes share territories year round). These toucanets nest in well-concealed tree hollows, and live in small flocks in the non-breeding season. They are found in open woodlands, including shade coffee plantations, from around 900 to over 3000 meters.

While they eat big insects and small lizards, fruit forms a large part of the diet of Emerald Toucanets. Therefore they are important dispersers of the seeds of tropical trees and shrubs. They have large feeding territories, so they encounter many species of trees, up to 47 at one Costa Rican study site alone. Although they are the smallest members of the toucan family, they’ll even consume large-seeded fruits, repeatedly regurgitating and reswallowing a fruit until the seed separates from the pulp and can be discarded. For the most part, seeds pass through the digestive system, though, and it’s been determined that those have a higher germination rate than seeds that merely drop to the ground in the fruit. All these factors make Emerald Toucanets an integral part of tropical forest ecosystems.

Because this species favors open forest habitats and forages in the mid-canopy, shade coffee farms are suitable habitat for them — and likely quite important in regions where other deforestation is high. Counter Culture Coffee chose the Emerald Toucanet for the new label of its Cafe San Ramon coffee because it is found at one of the main suppliers of these beans: Finca Esperanza Verde in the Matagalpa region of Nicaragua. In fact, when Counter Culture was redesigning the label and asked for a recommendation, I suggested this species (and the subspecies on the label is the correct one!). Just to keep myself honest, I’ll will be at Finca Esperanza Verde this week doing some bird surveys and bird banding, and hope to see a few Emerald Toucanets in the process.

Credits and references

Top photo of a “Blue-throated” Emerald Toucanet in Costa Rica by Laura Erickson; used with permission. Middle photo of the nominate form of Emerald Toucanet, in Honduras, by Brian Gratwicke, under a Creative Commons license.

Puebla-Olivares, F., E. Bonaccorso, A. E. de los Monteros, K. E. Omland, J. E. Llorente-Bousquets, A. T. Peterson, and A. G.
Navarro-Siguenza. 2008. Speciation in the Emerald Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus prasinus) complex. Auk 125:39-50.  For an excellent discussion of this paper and the taxonomy of Emerald Toucanets, see Nick Sly’s blog posts on the topic.

Riley, C. M. and K. G. Smith. 1992. Sexual dimorphism and foraging behavior of Emerald Toucanets Aulacorhynchus prasinus in Costa Rica. Ornis Scandinavica 23:459-466.

Wenny, D. May 2000. Seed dispersal, seed predation, and seedling recruitment of a newtropical montane tree. Ecological Monographs / Ecological Society of America, 70 (2): 331-351.

Wheelwright, N. T. 1991. How long do fruit-eating birds stay in the plants where they feed? Biotropica 23:29-40.

Wagner, H. O. 1944. Notes on the life history of the Emerald Toucanet. Wilson Bulletin 56:65-76.

Counter Culture Sanctuary Coffees

Plainspoken Coffee. A Coffee Review for Ordinary People by Ordinary People, #6.

Counter Culture’s Sanctuary Shade Grown Coffees.

Fred Houk, an avid birder and a former member of SCAA’s Environment (Sustainability) Committee, was one of the co-founders of Counter Culture Coffee.  Through his efforts, Counter Culture began marketing their Sanctuary coffees in 1997, making them one of the first shade-grown coffee lines.  Sanctuary coffees are not sold on the Counter Culture web site, but are available at many Whole Foods Markets in the eastern U.S., and in regional southeastern U.S. natural food chains such as Earth Fare, Green Life Grocery, and Weaver Street Market, as well as some independent co-ops and organic shops.  Counter Culture has plans for a future stand-alone Sanctuary web site.

Packages feature a Wood Thrush, currently still common in eastern North America but of high conservation concern because of steady, long-term population declines — down 43% since 1966 — throughout most of its range. Wood Thrushes winter in tropical forests throughout Central America, including shade coffee plantations.

CC’s Mark Overbay sent three Sanctuary coffees to try; all are certified organic.  Links are to CC’s offerings from the same origins.

  • Guatemala Huehuetenango Finca Nueva Armenia — The Huehuetenango coffee region in western Guatemala is rugged and high elevation. Finca Nueva Armenia has at least 50 species of native shade trees, and I understand they are going to apply for SMBC certification soon.This was my favorite, and the first “Huehue” that I’ve tried…I understand why it’s a favorite of experts. We found it had more character than other Central Americans, including a little citrusy zing, at least in the french press, that reminded us of an Ethiopian.  We also detected a fruity flavor, perhaps apricot, as the cup cooled.
  • Mexico Pluma La Trinidad — From the region around Pluma Hidalgo in Oaxaca.  La Trinidad is the coop with over 350 members, and it is Rainforest Alliance certified.A slightly deeper roast than the other two, with some hints of oil on the beans.  This was the most rich and chocolately of the bunch, and held up best as a drip.  Using the Aeropress or Eva Cafe Solo, it also made an excellent Americano. AND, it was great iced!
  • Nicaragua Matagalpa Cafe San Ramon — In my post about Nicaragua and its coffees, I mentioned Counter Culture has a strong relationship with growers in this region through the Sister Communities of San Ramon. The farm, Finca Esperanza Verde, has an ecolodge and a butterfly farm, and like the rest of the area, is a great birdwatching destination.  The Counter Culture involvement is a perfect model of relationship coffee.  This is what we’re looking for in sustainable coffees and righteous roasters, people!A clean and classic cup.  Using press or other immersion method brings out more character in this subtle coffee, especially hints of cocoa.

Any of these coffees would make excellent daily breakfast brews. We give these Sanctuary coffees overall 3.5 motmots.

Counter Culture was Roast Magazine’s 2004 Roaster of the Year, when CCC was wholesale-only.  We’re happy CCC went retail, especially with sustainable coffees such as the Sanctuary line.

Attention: Nicaragua

The situation and the role of coffee: Nicaraguan coffee made recent news, with a story on how organic coffee is losing its appeal to Nicaraguan coffee farmers. About 10% of the country’s coffee exports are organic, but producers feel there isn’t enough of a price premium to make the lower yields and extra effort (and certification costs) to produce organic coffees worthwhile.  Higher demand and increased volume of organic coffee worldwide has lowered prices, and according to the article, farmers are sometimes only receiving $1.05/lb for organic beans.

Nicaragua has suffered through civil war and natural disasters.  In 1998, Hurricane Mitch devastated the region and displaced many coffee farmers.  Coffee is an extremely important export crop, and 200,000 Nicaraguans depend on the industry.

Birds in coffee-growing regions: Organic and shade coffee are crucial for biodiversity in this country. Many of North America’s breeding birds — such as Blue-winged Warbler, Least Flycatcher, and the endangered Golden-cheeked Warbler — winter in Nicaragua.

In addition to migratory birds, coffee-growing areas of Nicaragua are critical to resident birds. They are included in the North Central American Highlands Endemic Bird Area (EBA).  EBAs are designated by BirdLife International as areas which have a high percentage of species with restricted ranges.  This EBA is given urgent conservation priority, and the account states, “The montane forests are especially affected at 1,000-1,800 m by the growing of coffee without shade trees.”

About Nicaraguan coffee: Coffee in Nicaragua is often grown under dense shade.  Coffee is usually wet-milled at the farm. The profile of coffee from this country is best described as very approachable, clean, and with good balance. Kenneth Davids of Coffee Review considers Nicaraguans “subtle, suave, and lyric.”

The C&C tasting panel and I have tried several organic Nicaraguan coffees: from Heine Brothers, Great Lakes Roasting Company, and the Counter Culture Matagalpa Cafe San Ramon listed below.  These coffees are classic coffees, friendly and subtle,  medium-bodied and straight-forward. They are not especially complex, and serve as great all-day coffees that would be excellent introductions to tasty, sustainable coffee for your Folger-swilling friends.

My favorite Nicaraguan is the Counter Culture; note that they also market the Matagalpa San Ramon as one of their shade-grown Sanctuary coffees, available at retail outlets such as Whole Foods. There are delicious hints of chocolate in this coffee, which is especially good in any kind of immersion brewer, such as a french press.  Counter Culture has a strong relationship with growers in this region through the Sister Communities of San Ramon. The farm, Finca Esperanza Verde, has an ecolodge and a butterfly farm, and like the rest of the area, is a great birdwatching destination.  The Counter Culture involvement is a perfect model of relationship coffee.